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Harrogate Audio Tour: Taking the Waters

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Harrogate's mineral springs made it the most fashionable resort in England. But every glass of sulphur water dispensed, every hot room maintained at the right temperature, every bath chair pushed up Montpellier Hill was the daily labour of working people whose names are rarely on the plaques. This tour follows the dipper elected Queen of the Wells, the Swiss pastry cook who arrived at King's Cross not knowing which city he was headed to, the engineer who became the town's greatest benefactor, the first park superintendent who shaped the valley for the public gaze, and the banjo player who recognised a famous novelist sitting quietly under a borrowed name. From the first spring discovered in the late sixteenth century to the great hydrotherapy palace opened at the end of the nineteenth, this is the story of the workforce that sold health to Victorian Britain.

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    Czas trwania 30–50 minsIdź we własnym tempie
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    Start przy Tewit Well, The Stray, Harrogate

Przystanki na tej trasie

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Tewit WellThe first of Harrogate's eighty-eight mineral springs to be identified and promoted. William Slingsby, a Yorkshire gentry traveller, recognised in 1571 that the chalybeate water here tasted like the famous spa waters of the Low Countries. His nephew Sir William Slingsby later promoted it; Edmund Deane published Spadacrene Anglica in 1626 to advertise its properties. The domed octagonal pavilion now covering the well dates from 1807, designed by Thomas Chippendale (not the furniture-maker; he died in 1779). The Stray itself — two hundred acres of common land — was formally protected by the Award of the Commissioners for the Enclosures of the Forest of Knaresborough in August 1778.
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Bettys Café Tea RoomsThe site of the original Bettys Café Tea Room, opened on 17 July 1919 at 9 Cambridge Crescent by Frederick Belmont, a Swiss confectioner. The Parliament Street branch around the corner opened in 1976 following the 1962 merger with Taylors of Harrogate; this Cambridge Crescent address is where Belmont's enterprise began. He arrived in England in 1907 at King's Cross railway station, not knowing which city he was supposed to be heading to; he boarded a train to Bradford by luck. After working as a baker at Bonnet & Sons in Bradford, he opened the first Bettys on 17 July 1919. Takings on the first day were just £30. The name 'Bettys' has three possible origins: Betty Rose, grand-daughter of the company chairman; Betty Lupton, the spa's Queen of the Wells; or a 1914 musical called Betty. The company itself says the origin is unknown.
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Royal HallBuilt in 1903 as the Kursaal (the German for 'Cure Hall') for the Corporation of Harrogate, designed by Robert Beale with the direct involvement of Frank Matcham, one of the most prolific theatre architects of his era. The funding came principally from Samson Fox (1838–1903), a Bradford-born engineer, industrialist and philanthropist who invented the corrugated boiler flue in 1877, founded the Leeds Forge Company in 1874, became Mayor of Harrogate for three successive years (1890–92), and donated £45,000 to build the Royal College of Music in London. Fox died in October 1903 — the same year the Kursaal opened. When the First World War began, the German name was dropped and the building renamed the Royal Hall.
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Turkish Baths HarrogateThe Grade II listed hydrotherapy palace at 5 Parliament Street, built by the Corporation of Harrogate at a cost of £120,000 and opened by the Duke of Cambridge on 23 July 1897. Designed by the London firm Baggallay and Bristowe, which won an open competition with 25 entries. Inside: Turkish baths, vapour baths, mud baths, needle baths, Vichy douches and electric treatments — around eighty different treatments in total. In August 1898 alone, 18,723 baths were administered. During the First World War the building was requisitioned as a military convalescent hospital; after 1945 it operated under NHS contracts providing roughly 150,000 treatments annually until the hydrotherapy programme ended in 1969. The Turkish baths section survives in operation today.
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The Old Swan HotelThe hotel at Swan Road, Harrogate HG1 2SR, operating under the name Swan Hydropathic Hotel when, in December 1926, the novelist Agatha Christie registered here under the false name Mrs Teresa Neele. Christie had disappeared from her Surrey home eleven days earlier, prompting a national search involving hundreds of police officers across four counties and thousands of volunteers. She was first recognised by Rosie Asher, a chambermaid who noticed her unusual shoes and American-style zipper purse — but Asher stayed silent, later saying the trouble was not worth her job. It was Bob Tappin, a hired banjo player in the hotel's resident band, who alerted the police. Christie had been 'enjoying dinner alone in the Wedgwood Restaurant, walking the gardens, reading the papers.'
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Royal Pump Room MuseumThe octagonal Grade II* listed building completed in 1842 over the Old Sulphur Well — the strongest-smelling of Harrogate's mineral springs. Designed by Isaac Thomas Shutt of the Swan Hotel at a cost of £2,249 0s 7d. The building could accommodate 150 visitors. Below it, the original sulphur spring still rises; visitors can smell it from the entrance. For roughly sixty years before the Pump Room was built, the well was tended by Betty Lupton (c.1760–1843), elected and crowned Queen of the Wells, who dispensed the sulphur water daily for small wages and tips. She was granted the title formally in 1837, the year Victoria came to the throne, and died in August 1843, within a fortnight of receiving her pension.

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