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アメリカ合衆国デモイン · アメリカ合衆国

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Iowa's capital punches well above its Midwest weight

Des Moines has spent decades being the butt of jokes about Midwestern anonymity and has responded by becoming, quietly, one of the better mid-size American cities to actually live in. The Iowa State Capitol building on East Grand Avenue, completed in 1886, has a gilded dome that is 23 karat gold leaf and is visible from most of the downtown, a daily reminder that the state takes its own government seriously. The Iowa State Fair in August, running since 1854 and attended by over a million people each year, is a genuine American institution and not a performance: the butter cow sculpture, the deep-fried everything, and the livestock competitions are all real and predate any self-conscious nostalgia about them.

The Principal Financial Group and several major insurance companies have their headquarters here, giving the downtown a density of office towers that surprises visitors.

The Des Moines Art Center, tucked into Greenwood Park west of downtown, is an architectural jewel with wings designed by Eliel Saarinen (1948), I.M. Pei (1968), and Richard Meier (1985), three generations of modernist masters building around each other. The collection inside is excellent for a city its size, with Francis Bacon, Jasper Johns, and Cy Twombly. The High Trestle Trail, a 25-mile converted rail trail running west into the countryside, passes through a remarkable 2011 pedestrian bridge near Madrid, Iowa, whose illuminated steel half-tunnel frames the night sky.

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Before you walk.

The Iowa State Capitol at 1007 East Grand Avenue, completed in 1886, is one of the more ornate state capitols in the country. Its gilded dome, the only one in the United States with a gold-leaf exterior, stands 275 feet tall. Free guided tours run daily and cover the legislative chambers, the governor's reception room with its hand-painted ceiling, and the law library with its ornate spiral staircases. The dome viewing room is accessible on tours.

The Des Moines Art Center in Greenwood Park is a free art museum with a permanent collection strong in 20th-century and contemporary American and European art. The building itself is notable as a collaboration across generations: Eliel Saarinen designed the original 1948 structure, I.M. Pei added a wing in 1968, and Richard Meier added a third wing in 1985. Each addition is clearly distinguished and the complex works remarkably well as a whole.

The Iowa State Fair runs for 11 days in mid-to-late August at the fairgrounds on East 30th Street, about two miles from downtown. It draws over a million visitors, making it one of the largest state fairs in the country. Highlights include livestock shows, the butter cow sculpture (a full-size cow sculpted in refrigerated butter, an Iowa tradition since 1911), the agricultural exhibits, and the midway. Parking is limited; take the shuttle.

East Village, directly across the Des Moines River from the downtown core and within sight of the Capitol dome, is the most walkable and food-focused neighborhood in the city. Court Avenue and East Grand Avenue through the neighborhood are lined with independent restaurants, coffee shops, and bars. The World Food Prize Hall of Laureates and the Iowa Women's Hall of Fame are both located here.

The High Trestle Trail is a 25-mile paved recreational trail along the route of a former Chicago and Northwestern Railway line, running from Ankeny northwest through the countryside to Woodward. The centerpiece is a 13-story-high pedestrian bridge over the Des Moines River near Madrid, completed in 2011, whose steel half-arches create a kaleidoscopic tunnel effect at night when illuminated. It is free to access at any time.

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