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Unas palabras sobre Chennai
Where Carnatic music lives, and the British built their first foothold.
Francis Day obtained a land grant here in 1639 from the Nayaka rulers and the British built Fort St. George in 1640, the first major English fortified settlement in India. The fort still stands on the seafront, now housing the Tamil Nadu state legislature and a museum with the flag that flew over it on Indian independence day in 1947. Around the fort grew a city that served as the British administrative center for South India for nearly three centuries, and the colonial-era buildings of George Town, some in Art Deco from the 1930s, fill the historic commercial district with a specific dense urban character.
Mylapore, which predates British arrival by centuries, contains the Kapaleeshwarar Temple, a Dravidian structure with its towering painted gopuram (gate pyramid) of the 6th-8th centuries, and the Parthasarathy Temple in neighboring Triplicane.
These are not museum pieces: both temples are active centers of worship with daily rituals and festival calendars. Walking through Mylapore's lanes among the flower sellers, the brass shops, and the silk merchants gives you the texture of Tamil urban commerce that has been continuous for a very long time.
Chennai
Chennai FAQ
Before you walk.
November through February is the most comfortable time, with temperatures between 22-30 degrees Celsius and lower humidity. March through June builds to intense heat (above 40 degrees) that makes extended outdoor walking very demanding. July-September can bring heavy monsoon rains. December is special if you want to experience the Madras Music Season.
Chennai is one of India's safer major cities. Walking in established neighborhoods like Mylapore, Nungambakkam, and George Town during daylight hours with headphones is generally comfortable. The main hazards are the traffic, which is heavy, and the pavement conditions, which vary considerably and require attention underfoot.
Start the day with idli and sambar or a dosa at any South Indian tiffin restaurant (look for ones with queues). Chettinad cuisine, the spiced cooking tradition from the region, is available at several restaurants in the city. A filter coffee (South Indian drip-brewed coffee with milk) is non-negotiable. Saravana Bhavan, which started in Chennai, is the most famous South Indian restaurant chain in the world but try local independent places first.
Chennai has a Metro system covering key areas and an extensive suburban rail network. Auto-rickshaws are widely available and relatively affordable; agree the fare before getting in or insist on the meter. Ola and Uber operate in Chennai with app-based pricing, which avoids negotiation.
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