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Stop 12 of 17

Museum Gardens

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Look for the stone entrance and iron gates opening onto broad lawns and mature trees, with the pale, classical front of the Yorkshire Museum set back inside.

This is one of York’s neatest acts of reinvention... a monastic precinct turned into a public garden of science, leisure, and civic self-respect. In eighteen twenty-eight, the royal family gave this land to the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, a local learned group with unusually practical ambitions. They wanted a museum, yes, but they also had to create botanical gardens, so they turned old abbey ground into a place where people could study, stroll, and quietly show off the city’s brainpower.

Sir John Murray Naysmith laid out the gardens in the eighteen thirties in what was called a gardenesque style, meaning the planting was designed to display individual trees and shrubs almost like specimens in the open air. Across roughly ten acres beside the River Ouse, he shaped lawns, beds, and winding views around ruins that were already ancient. York, as ever, declined to choose just one century.

And that is the pleasure of standing here. Roman York is still in the frame. If you glance at your screen, the fortifications image shows the Multangular Tower and surviving wall of the Roman fortress. Those limestone blocks with a stripe of red tile belong to the late Roman defenses, and later builders folded them into the medieval city walls as if borrowing from a very old toolkit.

Then the Middle Ages step in. The abbey ruins nearby belonged to St Mary’s, and the gardens now frame them rather than hide them. On your phone, you can see how dramatic that church still looks in fragments. The Hospitium, another surviving building here, probably began as a guest house for lower-status visitors, or perhaps a barn, and later the Philosophical Society repaired it and used it for their collections. Even storage rooms here have biographies.

One person who helped shape this place was William Hincks, a botany lecturer at York’s medical school. He gave years of his spare time to turning what had been described as waste ground into a botanical and ornamental garden, helped by Henry Baines. That phrase, “spare time,” is doing heroic work. Meanwhile John Phillips, the museum’s first keeper, got a rather more direct experience of the grounds. In eighteen thirty-one, when the gardens still had a menagerie, an escaped bear chased Phillips and Reverend Harcourt into an outbuilding. The bear then departed for London Zoo, which feels like York filing a complaint in the politest possible way.

By the mid nineteenth century, these gardens counted among York’s main attractions. What had once been enclosed religious land became civic space: free eventually, richly planted, open to ordinary residents, threaded with abbey stone, Roman masonry, and scientific ambition. Even performance returned here later, with the Mystery Plays staged among the ruins and a young Judi Dench once playing the Virgin Mary.

So before we step to the museum itself, notice what these gardens really do: they let ruins remain ruins, while giving them fresh work to do. The gardens are generally open daily from nine in the morning until six in the evening, and the Yorkshire Museum is right here for our next stop.

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