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Stop 3 of 17

The Water Tower

headphones 02:39

Ahead of you is a rough sandstone tower with a round lower drum, a squarer upper turret, and a crenellated spur wall marching back to the city walls.

This started life as the New Tower, though by the seventeenth century everyone sensibly called it the Water Tower, and the City Assembly rather hopelessly tried to correct them. John de Helpston designed it between thirteen twenty-two and thirteen twenty-five, when this spot stood in the River Dee itself. From here, guards watched shipping, defended Chester's port, and made sure merchants paid their customs dues... medieval tax enforcement with a good view.

Its shape is satisfyingly odd: a circular base, then a square turret above, with two octagonal chambers stacked inside, and even a tiny latrine tucked into the angle by the wall. That spur wall links the tower to Bonewaldesthorne's Tower, and the battlements - the tooth-like gaps along the top, called crenellations - may be the only surviving medieval example on Chester's walls. The app has a photo of the medieval toilet if you want proof that military architecture still had to solve ordinary human logistics.

A medieval toilet inside the Water Tower — a rare survival that hints at the building’s everyday medieval practicality.
A medieval toilet inside the Water Tower — a rare survival that hints at the building’s everyday medieval practicality.Photo: Worm That Turned, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.

By the end of the sixteenth century, the Dee had silted up, leaving the tower stranded about two hundred yards inland. If you like, check the comparison in the app; it shows how this former river outwork became part of a much more managed city setting.

In sixteen thirty-nine, the city renovated it, then turned parts of the wall into gun ports, and Civil War fighting damaged it. After that, it slipped into life as a storehouse, and by seventeen twenty-eight someone dismissed it as "useless and neglected"... a bit harsh, honestly. In eighteen thirty-eight, the Chester Mechanics' Institution opened a museum here; Grosvenor Museum later took over and reopened it to the public in nineteen sixty-two. Since two thousand and sixteen, it has housed the history-of-medicine museum, Sick to Death.

If you want to go in, it is usually closed on Monday, open Tuesday and Wednesday from ten to three, and Thursday to Sunday from ten to four.

This tower is Chester's old river sentry, stranded on land but still stubbornly impressive.

When you're ready, we can head on to Watergate.

The spur wall leading up to the Water Tower — the same medieval link that connects it to Bonewaldesthorne’s Tower.
The spur wall leading up to the Water Tower — the same medieval link that connects it to Bonewaldesthorne’s Tower.Photo: Chris McKenna, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
Seen from Bonewaldesthorne’s Tower, this shows the spur wall relationship that made the Water Tower part of Chester’s city-wall defence.
Seen from Bonewaldesthorne’s Tower, this shows the spur wall relationship that made the Water Tower part of Chester’s city-wall defence.Photo: Tilman2007, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped & resized.
A downstairs fireplace inside the tower, one of the domestic details from its later use as a museum and storehouse.
A downstairs fireplace inside the tower, one of the domestic details from its later use as a museum and storehouse.Photo: Worm That Turned, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
The arched ceiling in the lower chamber, showing the thick sandstone structure of the medieval tower.
The arched ceiling in the lower chamber, showing the thick sandstone structure of the medieval tower.Photo: Worm That Turned, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
The ground-floor stairwell illustrates the narrow vertical circulation inside the tower’s two-stage interior.
The ground-floor stairwell illustrates the narrow vertical circulation inside the tower’s two-stage interior.Photo: Worm That Turned, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
Close detail of the fireplace, highlighting how the tower was adapted and reused long after its defensive role faded.
Close detail of the fireplace, highlighting how the tower was adapted and reused long after its defensive role faded.Photo: Worm That Turned, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
The skylight and exposed beams reveal the tower’s interior roof structure above the older stone chambers.
The skylight and exposed beams reveal the tower’s interior roof structure above the older stone chambers.Photo: Worm That Turned, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
The upstairs room inside the tower, part of the later museum spaces opened by the Chester Mechanics’ Institution in 1838.
The upstairs room inside the tower, part of the later museum spaces opened by the Chester Mechanics’ Institution in 1838.Photo: Mum's taxi, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
The wall-level chamber inside the tower, showing the layered interior layout behind the city walls.
The wall-level chamber inside the tower, showing the layered interior layout behind the city walls.Photo: Chris McKenna, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
A coat of arms on the spur wall, a decorative survival on the medieval stonework linking the two towers.
A coat of arms on the spur wall, a decorative survival on the medieval stonework linking the two towers.Photo: Worm That Turned, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
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