To spot the Co-Cathedral of Logroño, just look for two soaring twin towers and a grand stone façade rising above the lively Plaza del Mercado - you can’t miss it!
Welcome to the magnificent Co-Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda! Before we step into its story, just take a moment and listen: That’s the usual soundtrack to this part of town. For centuries, this corner of Logroño has echoed with bells, footsteps of pilgrims, and the quiet whispers of history.
Now, picture yourself standing here a thousand years ago. We’re smack in the Middle Ages, and Logroño is just a riverside stop on the mighty Camino de Santiago - yes, the famous pilgrimage route. Pilgrims would cross the Ebro nearby on an ancient bridge built by saints with names that sound like they belong in an epic poem: Santo Domingo de la Calzada and San Juan de Ortega. Where you stand today was once a humble settlement. Imagine dusty travelers, the smell of baking bread from street vendors, and maybe the clanking of a horseshoe as someone passes through the market.
The church that first greeted pilgrims here was a small, round, Romanesque building - and that’s actually how this place got its nickname, “La Redonda.” But like all good things, it grew larger and grander as Logroño flourished. By the 15th century, it became a collegiate church, teaming up with another in Albelda, where monks spent their days crafting precious medieval books in a scriptorium that must’ve smelled of ink and old parchment.
Fast forward to the 16th through 19th centuries, and you’d see stonemasons at work on what would become the architectural wonder in front of you. The church evolved into its current form, with three lofty naves and a dreamy corridor behind the altar called the ambulatory. Walk around back and you’ll be tracing steps taken by generations before you. Don’t forget to look up: the soaring columns and the branching vaults overhead look just like a forest - a “stone palm grove” sheltering the faithful.
But the real attention-grabber is this grand entrance. The twin towers on either side of the main door are more than just a local landmark - they’re practically the fashion trend-setters for church towers all over La Rioja! Their creator, Martín de Beratúa, was inspired by a tower in nearby Haro, and soon enough, everyone wanted a “Matching Twin Towers” look for their church. Move over, New York!
Right between the towers is a huge stone altarpiece that acts as the building’s calling card. Step inside, and you’ll stumble upon centuries of religious art: paintings, sculptures, even bits and pieces rescued from churches that no longer exist. One of the brightest gems inside is the Chapel of Our Lady of the Angels, finished in 1756-it sparkles with all the delicate drama of Baroque architecture and bridges the worlds of art and devotion.
Now, here’s where things get mysterious. In the ambulatory, hidden behind the main altar, is a little painting on a wooden panel-just a Calvary scene, with Christ, the sorrowful Virgin Mary, John the Evangelist, and Mary Magdalene. Legend has it, this was painted by no less than Michelangelo. Yes, the Michelangelo - although, to this day, people debate its origins. One thing’s for sure: it’s not a copy, as you can spot the artist’s second thoughts in the brushstrokes, with changes to Mary’s arm and the surprising addition of Mary Magdalene breaking the usual symmetry.
Let’s not forget Bishop Pedro González, the grand collector, who built his own chapel and traveled all the way to Rome, only to fill his Logroño legacy with precious art, silver busts, and sacred relics. When he set out his grand plan, he even noted where certain treasures should be kept, with the mysterious line: “It is kept in the chests.” Makes you wonder if there are still secrets stashed somewhere, waiting for an Indiana Jones-style discovery.
But there’s more to see here, like dazzling panels painted in 1584 by Gillis Congnet, which came a long way from Antwerp via a Parisian art-dealer’s hands. Or the grand, sculpted altarpieces that tell stories through both wood and stone - check out the curious worshiper who peeks through the wall in The Epiphany, or San Pedro brandishing a key that looks more like a medieval sword than anything else.
Throughout the centuries, this cathedral has stood tall over Plaza del Mercado, while the city buzzed with social, religious, and cultural life. So whether you believe in miracles or just really good architecture, La Redonda offers a window into the soul of Logroño - and maybe, if you listen closely, the stones might just tell you a secret or two. Now, ready to find out what mysteries the next stop holds?
To expand your understanding of the historical introduction, evolution of the architecture of the temple or the art collections, feel free to engage with me in the chat section below.
