On your right, you will see a gently curving paved street framed by tall half-timbered houses with wooden crossbeams, marked further down by an ornate wrought-iron sign arching over the roadway. Welcome to La Grand-Rue, the main artery of Colmar.
This street has seen its share of profound drama, including some incredibly dark historical trials that we will explore more deeply at our very next stop.
For now, let's focus on some of the street's lighter curiosities. Look for number thirty-six, the Maison Sandherr. Up on its gable, the top triangular section of the exterior wall, there is an unusual carving of a man from the torso up, casually smoking a pipe. Rebuilt in 1668, this stony smoker has been quietly watching the crowds for centuries. A few doors down at number fifty-two is a building from 1392 that spent hundreds of years as a humble salt storage depot. In a wonderful twist of fate, it later became a Michelin-starred restaurant where a celebrated local chef turned the old wood-beamed space into a renowned destination for French gastronomy.
You might also notice a statue of Théophile Conrad Pfeffel, a brilliant blind poet and teacher born on this street in 1736. The original bronze tribute to him was melted down for weapons by the German military in 1918, making the current statue a resilient 1927 replacement. Colmar has always navigated complex political currents, perfectly illustrated by the nearby column from 1543 honoring Emperor Charles the Fifth. Colmar was fiercely independent, yet local leaders put up this monument celebrating the Emperor just to stay in his good graces, proving that a little flattery in stone went a long way in early diplomacy.
For those interested in exploring the local spots along this route, most businesses here are open every day of the week from 8 AM until 11 PM. Take a moment to admire the incredible architecture along this historic stretch. When you are ready, we will take a closer look at the Sovereign Council of Alsace, which is just a minute away.
