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Stop 4 of 17

B&O Railroad Headquarters Building

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Now, take a second and check out the entrance. Up there, Mercury — the Roman god of commerce — looks like he’s watching your every move. And right beside him is Progress of Industry, clutching a locomotive in one hand and a torch in the other, as if to say, “We’ll light the way. We’ll get you there... probably on time.” This place was no run-of-the-mill office block. When it opened, it had 13 stories — that’s 220 feet straight up — making it the second tallest building in Baltimore. It used 1,600 windows, seven types of marble (shipped in from four different continents), and the bottom three floors are clad in legit New Hampshire granite. Basically, if you were one of the 1,000 people working here in its heyday, you’d feel like you were clocking in at a palace rather than a workplace. Oh, and they could feed 500 people in the company dining room at once. Back then, given the cost of building it — millions in 1906 dollars, which translates to something like $70 million or more in today’s cash — they really spared no expense. Marbled lobbies, two grand white staircases, those stained-glass windows by Tiffany... it was a glittering symbol of Baltimore’s ambition. Of course, the city didn’t forget what happened to the first B&O HQ down the road — the fire took care of that one — so they made sure this building was steel-framed. Literally fireproof. Even today, you can sense that old charm if you peek inside. There’s enough marble to make a Roman emperor blush, and if you squint, maybe you’ll spot some railroad brass from back in the day, plotting routes and fortunes. Through the decades, a lot changed. Oscar G. Murray, the president who oversaw the building’s opening, thought about the people who worked underneath all that marble and glass, too. When he died, his will set up a fund for widows and orphans of railroad workers — a little slice of humanity mixed into all that industrial might. That fund still supports families over a century later, now managed by a local charity. In more recent times, the old HQ got a serious facelift — millions more spent to turn it into a boutique hotel. Now it’s a swanky Kimpton property, the Hotel Monaco, with a sleek restaurant where you can have a locally brewed beer and imagine railroad moguls making deals over cigars. Three stories of office space remain, plus BB&T Bank on the ground floor. The renovations were so good, they picked up a few awards — and, honestly, Baltimore’s not short on opinionated judges when it comes to what counts as “good” architecture. So, next time someone tells you “they don’t make ’em like they used to,” just point to this building. It’s still here, standing proud, splashed with sunlight and city stories, right in the thick of downtown.

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