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Stop 9 of 12

Scots Kirk, Lausanne

Scots Kirk, Lausanne
Scots Kirk, Lausanne
Scots Kirk, LausannePhoto: Peb45, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.

On your right, look for a compact stone church with a steep gabled roof, an asymmetrical outline, and narrow pointed windows cut into its pale walls.

This is the Scots Kirk of Lausanne, and it tells you something important about the city: Lausanne never stayed sealed inside its own traditions for long. Even religion here could arrive with an accent.

The first attempt to form a Presbyterian congregation in Lausanne began in eighteen sixty-six... and folded after only two years. That might have been the end of it. Instead, a determined pastor named Amalric-Frédéric Buscarlet stepped in. He usually served in Naples, but he spent time in Montreux as a chaplain for visitors. In eighteen seventy-four, Mrs. Williamina Davidson invited him to Lausanne to lead weekday services. He came, gathered a small congregation with surprising speed, and then did the unglamorous miracle every institution depends on: he raised support, persuaded people, and made something fragile feel permanent.

At first, the congregation borrowed rooms in the Musée industriel and the chapel of the Église libre des Terreaux. In other words, worship here began the same way much of city life does... by finding a room and convincing people to show up. Buscarlet then pushed for a proper church, and the little project suddenly attracted a very large name: Eugène-Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc, the French architect already working on Lausanne Cathedral. Modest commission, not exactly modest architect.

Locals like to note one detail most visitors miss: Viollet-le-Duc reportedly took an interest in this church while recovering in Lausanne from a serious illness. That gives the place an oddly personal origin. It also became a rare church design for him outside France, which makes this small kirk rarer than it first appears. If you glance at the image in the app, that slightly off-balance silhouette is part of the point.

Jules Verrey, a local architect, then carried out the construction. They dedicated the church in April of eighteen seventy-seven, even before everything was finished, and added the vestry two years later. Unlike the cathedral we saw earlier, layered over centuries, this building arrived quickly and on purpose: a Scottish Protestant identity, carefully translated into Lausanne stone. Its asymmetrical shape and timbered roof drew on rural English and Scottish churches, and inside, Viollet-le-Duc designed the original furnishings too, including the raised central pulpit reached by two staircases converging like a small piece of theological stagecraft.

The kirk later took the name Saint Andrew’s. It survived restorations, gained heritage protection, and kept adapting. Today it belongs to the Church of Scotland’s International Presbytery, holds services in English, and gathers people from twenty-three nationalities. The hall hosts potluck lunches, conversation classes, Scottish country dancing, and, after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in twenty twenty-two, the church helped launch a local Ukraine Centre with neighboring congregations. So this is not just a refuge for expatriates. It is one of those Lausanne buildings that keeps finding new uses without losing its memory.

And that, is very Lausanne indeed. In a few minutes, you’ll see the same talent for second lives in a thoroughly modern costume, where reinvention moves from the sanctuary to the laboratory... at Debiopharm.

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