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Stop 2 of 17

Iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari

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Iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari

To spot the Church of Saint Nicholas of Bari, look for a sturdy, simple stone building facing the Plaza de San Nicolás, with weathered beige walls, barred windows, and a pointed arch doorway just up a few stone steps.

Welcome to the Church of Saint Nicholas of Bari, one of Cuenca’s quiet legends! Picture it: the 15th century, a time of knights and cloaks, but here in front of you stands a church that breaks all the rules for its age. While many buildings then dressed up in Renaissance style, this one stubbornly clung to older, Romanesque bones-a rectangular plan, strong stone walls, and a main doorway that faces south for maximum sunshine. The thick masonry walls (go ahead, touch them if you like!) are the real-deal, finished with mortar as rough as a monk’s robe, and if you look at the corners, you’ll see solid stone blocks holding everything together, just in case medieval mischief-makers got any funny ideas.

Imagine walking into the church centuries ago, the hustle and bustle of the plaza behind you, and stepping into a peaceful, echoing nave divided by grand pilasters. The floor under your feet would creak as you made your way to the main altar, where a statue of Saint Nicholas would quietly watch you-legend has it, the real Nicholas is buried far away in Italy, but this statue isn’t letting that stop him from keeping a stern eye on Cuenca’s flock.

Now, here’s a little secret for you: below today’s church, hidden under houses that cozied up to the old stone apse, are remnants of the original building, lost to sight but not to legend! And if you really wanted to ring in the morning, take the spiral stone stairs up to the bell-the only thing trickier than climbing them is making your way down after celebrating too much at one of Monday’s special masses. All together, this church is a survivor, a bit mysterious, and quietly charming, much like Cuenca itself. Shall we head to the next stop? The adventure is just beginning!

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