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Stop 2 of 16

Palace of Telephones

headphones 01:59

To spot the Telephones Company Building, just look for a tall, creamy-white Art Deco structure with rows of slender windows and a sharp square tower topped with red-and-white antennas, right on the lively Calea Victoriei.

Imagine yourself here on Calea Victoriei in the early 1930s, when the world felt topsy-turvy and the Great Depression echoed all the way to Romania. Picture the clamor of construction--as workers rush to build the city’s first skyscraper, a bold Art Deco marvel rising 52.5 meters into the sky. The Romanian government, facing economic trouble, struck a dramatic deal with the Americans: J.P. Morgan’s bankers brought modern telephony to Bucharest, but at the price of a 20-year phone monopoly. At the center of it all stood this very building, designed by Edmond Van Saanen Algi, who had Dutch roots and a flair for style.

Where you now stand was once the Oteteleșanu Mansion-imagine elegant citizens sipping coffees and enjoying beer under twinkling café lights, gossiping about Bucharest’s latest news. As construction took off, the steel skeleton came from the smoky forges of Reșița, and by 1934, King Carol II himself admired the finished palace, a proud new symbol for the city.

Through air raid sirens in 1944, the rumble of earthquakes over the next decades, and the thunder of revolution in 1989, this building stood its ground-sometimes barely! Legend says they didn’t even design the roof to hold more than a coffee shop, and when it was time to renovate in the ’90s, the plans had all vanished, like a good magician’s secret. Seven hundred workers, a million euros, and a lot of determination later, the grand palace was rescued, façade gleaming again, standing tall-a witness to nearly a century of drama, deals, and more than a few telephone calls that surely changed lives.

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