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Stop 13 of 17

Jabłonowskich

Jabłonowskich
Jabłonowskich Street in Krakow
Jabłonowskich Street in KrakowPhoto: Zygmunt Put, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped & resized.

Ahead of you is a short, straight street lined with stone late nineteenth-century tenements, their tall rectangular windows and the rounded corner mass of the Hussarzewski House giving the whole frontage a composed, urban rhythm.

When a government renames a street, it does more than replace a plaque. It tries to train everyday memory itself: how people write their address, how they give directions, which past gets spoken and which one is quietly pushed aside.

Jabłonowskich began as aristocratic ground. The land west of the old city walls belonged to the Jabłonowski family, and when Kraków expanded hard in the eighteen seventies and eighteen eighties, their gardens gave way to plots, and the plots gave way to rental houses. The city laid out this street at the end of the eighteen eighties and officially named it in eighteen ninety. If you glance at the image in the app, you can see that long, orderly residential perspective still holding its shape. Then came the twentieth century’s heavier hand. From nineteen fifty-two until nineteen ninety, this was officially Stanisława Ziai Street. For nearly four decades, every letter delivered here, every identity card, every doorway number, served a state-sponsored version of remembrance. That is the detail most visitors miss: an entire ordinary street turned into an instrument of ideological branding.

Looking east along the street, this modern panorama helps place the route in the historic New Town area of Kraków and shows the street’s continuous residential character.
Looking east along the street, this modern panorama helps place the route in the historic New Town area of Kraków and shows the street’s continuous residential character.Photo: Zygmunt Put, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped & resized.

The crucial building stands at numbers ten to twelve, the student house known as Bratniak. Have a look at it on your screen. In nineteen sixty-three, the communist authorities renamed the building Blokada, or Blockade, claiming to honour a left-wing student action from nineteen thirty-seven. But the truth is rather sharper. In the nineteen thirties, Bratniak was largely a fortress of nationalist students, and the notorious blockade of the university aimed to pressure the rector into introducing segregated seating for Jewish students. The official story softened that ugliness, then tried to overwrite it.

The Bratniak student dormitory at numbers 10–12, where the club Buda later gave birth to Kabaret Pod Budą and where Bohdan Smoleń’s student story began.
The Bratniak student dormitory at numbers 10–12, where the club Buda later gave birth to Kabaret Pod Budą and where Bohdan Smoleń’s student story began.Photo: Mach240390, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0. Cropped & resized.

That is where Stanisław Ziaja enters. He studied philosophy at the Jagiellonian University, lived here in the student house, joined the illegal Communist Party of Poland, and suffered repeated arrests for it. He likely stood on the opposite side of those student battles. He died violently in nineteen forty-four, in Kraków, though some sources place his end in the Płaszów camp. After the war, the new regime chose him as a fitting patron and pushed the old Jabłonowski name aside. Like the Rejtan monument earlier, this is a reminder that memory is fought over; only here, the struggle hid inside an address.

And yet the story refused to stay obedient. In Bratniak’s cellars, the student club Buda later gave birth to the cabaret Pod Budą, with Bohdan Smoleń among its founders. A building used to discipline memory ended up nurturing laughter instead. Hold onto that thought as we continue to the EUROPEUM, where another old structure discovers a second cultural life.

A wide westward view of Jabłonowskich Street showing its calm late-19th-century urban frontage near Planty, where the city expanded onto former Jabłonowskich family land.
A wide westward view of Jabłonowskich Street showing its calm late-19th-century urban frontage near Planty, where the city expanded onto former Jabłonowskich family land.Photo: Zygmunt Put, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped & resized.
Another east-facing street view, useful for orientation near the Loretańska side and for showing the overall scale of this short Kraków street.
Another east-facing street view, useful for orientation near the Loretańska side and for showing the overall scale of this short Kraków street.Photo: Igor123121, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped & resized.
Kamienica at Jabłonowskich 3, designed by Józef Pokutyński in 1899, representing the elegant apartment-house boom that replaced the old gardens here.
Kamienica at Jabłonowskich 3, designed by Józef Pokutyński in 1899, representing the elegant apartment-house boom that replaced the old gardens here.Photo: Mach240390, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0. Cropped & resized.
Kamienica at Jabłonowskich 6 by Beniamin Torbe, a solid early-20th-century tenement from the period when the street was being densely built up.
Kamienica at Jabłonowskich 6 by Beniamin Torbe, a solid early-20th-century tenement from the period when the street was being densely built up.Photo: Mach240390, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0. Cropped & resized.
Kamienica at Jabłonowskich 7 by Leopold Tlachna, another well-preserved tenement that reflects the street’s early modern residential development.
Kamienica at Jabłonowskich 7 by Leopold Tlachna, another well-preserved tenement that reflects the street’s early modern residential development.Photo: Mach240390, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0. Cropped & resized.
An older street view from 2007, useful as a historical comparison for how Jabłonowskich has changed while keeping its long residential perspective.
An older street view from 2007, useful as a historical comparison for how Jabłonowskich has changed while keeping its long residential perspective.Photo: Rj1979, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain. Cropped & resized.
A 2015 view of Jabłonowskich Street that complements the newer panoramas and shows the everyday character of the street today.
A 2015 view of Jabłonowskich Street that complements the newer panoramas and shows the everyday character of the street today.Photo: SkyMaja, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped & resized.
A preserved 1980s Škoda parked on Jabłonowskich Street, adding a street-level detail that captures the everyday atmosphere beyond the architecture.
A preserved 1980s Škoda parked on Jabłonowskich Street, adding a street-level detail that captures the everyday atmosphere beyond the architecture.Photo: SuperTank17, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.
A Nysa van on Jabłonowskich Street, a practical detail that brings the lived-in urban scene of this Kraków side street into view.
A Nysa van on Jabłonowskich Street, a practical detail that brings the lived-in urban scene of this Kraków side street into view.Photo: Andrzej Otrębski, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped & resized.
Another Nysa van view on Jabłonowskich Street, offering a different angle on the street’s everyday traffic and local character.
Another Nysa van view on Jabłonowskich Street, offering a different angle on the street’s everyday traffic and local character.Photo: Andrzej Otrębski, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped & resized.
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