Imagine, if you will, the year is 1944, and the atmosphere is thick with tension. The city of Eindhoven is caught up in Operation Market Garden, anxious and waiting, when liberation finally comes on the 18th of September. That day became so important to the city that when it was time to name this new square years later, there was only one fitting choice: 18 Septemberplein. Quite the upgrade from its days as a mere “Parallelweg”!
But let’s go even further back. In the late 1800s, right where you stand now, a railroad was laid, brute and noisy, slicing Eindhoven in two. An old air bridge allowed brave pedestrians to cross, but everyone else had to wait for the endless parade of trains rumbling by. For decades, that railway was more frustrating than waiting for your online shopping delivery in the 1990s.
Then came the devastation of World War II, including the 1942 “Sinterklaas bombing” by the RAF, which destroyed a large chunk of northern Eindhoven. From this tragedy, hope and new plans were born. Architect J.A. van der Laan came up with a grand reconstruction plan, moving the railway a hundred meters north towards Woensel. By 1953, after years of work, the new elevated tracks allowed the city to reclaim this space. Imagine tunnels cut into the earth where once a wooden bridge and a proud gate-known as the Woenselse Poort-kept travelers in check. Today, bits of that old town gate are actually displayed downstairs in the city’s unique Tube bicycle parking. So, don't be surprised if you park your bike on ancient history next time you visit!
As the 1950s rolled into the 1960s, this square was supposed to be the Demerplein, a grand plaza lined with bold new buildings. In 1952, the C&A building opened here, soon joined by a furniture store where-plot twist-McDonald’s now resides. By 1969, the stunning De Bijenkorf department store was unveiled, designed by Giò Ponti, a real Italian superstar of architecture. I guess you could say Eindhoven was getting a little bit of Milan right here in the Lowlands.
Life wasn’t always glamorous, though. Through the ‘70s and ‘80s, city planners tried all sorts of tricks to make this square lively and safe from swarming traffic. Restaurants, honeycomb-shaped tiny shops, and kiosks popped up like mushrooms, trying to lure people in. Still, cars and buses zoomed by, honking and rumbling, barely noticing the hungry poffertjes stands or the misplaced dance floor. There was even a wild idea for an underground shopping mall-let’s just say that one didn’t quite make it out of the planning stage.
As time rolled into the new millennium, out went the roundabout, in came the bold new look by architect Massimiliano Fuksas in 2009. Now, drink in the views: swanky paving stones underfoot, waves and bubbles in the fountains, entrance tubes poking out of the earth like futuristic worms, and a light show that could make a disco jealous. You’ll spot the Blob’s shiny glass bubble and the Witte Dame’s white curves nearby, while the Piazza shopping center calls you in for a visit.
If you’re here on a Tuesday, watch the market come alive-cheese mongers, bakers, and chatter everywhere. And next time you walk down Emmasingel, look out for The Blob and The Bubble-Eindhoven’s way of reminding you that the past and future are always holding hands on this square.
Alright, explorer! Ready for the next chapter? Onward to the Monastery Mariënhage-follow me!
