Right in front of you is Plaza Río de Janeiro-just look for the playful sprays of water and the bronze replica of Michelangelo’s David rising proudly in the middle of a lush, green square.
Welcome to Plaza Río de Janeiro, a place where the spirit of early 20th-century Mexico still lingers in the shadows beneath the trees. If you close your eyes for a second, you can almost hear the gentle splash of water from the fountain at the center, crowned by that rather fearless David, who’s been striking his iconic pose here since 1976. Imagine the excitement and commotion of 1903, when this land-once just a patch at the corner of Durango and Orizaba-was donated by clever planners, determined to turn the Roma neighborhood into the envy of other world capitals. I suppose the pets here don’t realize they’re unwitting participants in a Porfirian dream!
The square’s first name was Parque Roma, then Parque Orizaba. But, in 1922, José Vasconcelos-the then Secretary of Education-rebaptized it “Plaza Río de Janeiro” in honor of Brazil’s independence centennial. The neighbors? They weren’t thrilled! But Vasconcelos had style, and today the name is still a reminder of Mexico’s eagerness to take its place on the global stage.
If you glance to the east side of the square, you’ll notice a building straight out of a fairytale-or, perhaps, a spooky story. That’s the Casa de las Brujas, the “Witches’ House,” officially named Edificio Río de Janeiro. Its pointed, hat-like roof and quirky brickwork seem to give it a face: eyes, a nose, a mischievous smile… Some say it watches over the plaza. Inside, the Art Deco touches are like secrets from another era.
This plaza has always been a spot for recreation. Benches invite neighbors to gossip or relax, children giggle in their play area, and art lovers drift in from nearby galleries and cafés. Every whiff of fresh grass and every echo of laughter is part of a modern city’s heartbeat-a heartbeat that’s been going strong since the days when Mexico City wanted to rival Paris, London… even Rio itself. Now, isn’t that something to smile about?
