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Stop 5 of 16

Velasca Tower

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Look up ahead for a towering, blocky building with a wide, overhanging top supported by giant inverted V-shaped braces-almost like a mushroom or, as some Milanese might joke, suspenders holding up a pair of architectural trousers!

Now, let’s step right into the story of Milan’s boldest contender for “most unforgettable skyscraper.” The Torre Velasca rises before you like the city’s own concrete giant, its odd shape a vivid hint about Milan’s complicated relationship with the future. Built in the 1950s, this tower was a symbol of new hope after the devastation of World War II. Imagine the city then:, streets scattered with rubble, the air filled with the sounds of rebuilding. The city wanted not just to recover, but to reach for the sky-and that’s exactly what happened here.

The architects-who called themselves Studio BBPR-weren’t content with just another steel-and-glass tower like the ones popping up in America. No, they wanted something that would scream “Milan” from miles away. So, they set out to create a new symbol for the city, working with engineers who warned them that Italy’s steel industry couldn’t handle a full-on American-style skyscraper. Their solution: a tough, quirky, concrete tower draped in pink porphyry stone, which was far more budget friendly-not to mention more Italian!

Stretching up for 28 stories, the tower’s shape is no accident. The slimmer shaft below holds offices and shops, while the top fans out like a medieval watchtower-this was for the luxury apartments with more space and spectacular panoramic terraces. You can almost imagine a 1960s movie star opening the window above you and shouting “Buongiorno Milano!” to the city below. In fact, that’s not far from the truth-famous people did live up there, soaking up the view and, at times, the controversy.

Ah, yes, controversy. When Torre Velasca cut its quirky silhouette into the skyline, it was a bit of a marmite moment-you loved it or you didn’t. Some Milanese gave it a teasing nickname: the “skyscraper with suspenders,” thanks to those chunky beams jutting out. Other critics, like the British architecture bigshot Reyner Banham, called it a step backwards, while locals just called it “the monster.” But the debate was proof of its impact: this was not just another boxy building!

Over time, opinions mellowed-at least for some. Nowadays, many see it as a true classic: a wild blend of medieval echoes and futuristic ambition. Its chunky base and crown of spires nod to Milan’s gothic towers, while the wild, almost playful design laughs in the face of boring, international styles. Even the restoration, finished in the spring of 2024, tried to honor the original spirit: the stone was cleaned, new shops and a gym were added, and the whole square became a pedestrian zone with fresh paving and greenery. Now, instead of car horns, you’ll hear people chatting and laughing in the new open space.

If those walls could talk, they’d have many stories to tell: of film shoots at dawn, famous writers arguing about its beauty or ugliness, nighttime parties in the penthouses, and architects dreaming up new worlds. For better or worse, Torre Velasca stands as Milan’s stubborn, ever-watchful landmark-a mushroom-shaped memory of a city that dares to look up, even when not everyone agrees on what they see! So, as you stand here, take a moment to let your eyes wander up the quirky lines. The future never looked so interesting-or so unexpected!

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