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Stop 8 of 15

Mountain garden

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Let’s roll back to 1666. Picture a stern-looking Duke Johann Friedrich, pondering what to do with his not-so-mountainous sand hill north of Herrenhausen Palace. His solution? Vegetables! Lots of them. This was the grocery store for the royal court, and every carrot and cabbage was fit for a king. But wait, along comes Electress Sophie-a woman with a taste for the exotic. Forget potatoes, she wants palm trees and dazzling foreign flowers. So, in 1686, she orders a greenhouse built. Suddenly, cabbages are out, passionflowers are in! The Berggarten begins its transformation into a playground for botanical experiments. Rice, unfortunately, never made it. But tobacco and mulberries? Those grew just fine, feeding royal silkworms in Hameln, who spun silk fit for, well, royalty! The business didn’t last, though-apparently, worms aren’t the most reliable employees.

Fast forward to the 1720s. The garden artist Ernst August Charbonnier carves out an elegant alley, or Allee, leading guests in style from Herrenhäuser Straße to the Guelph Mausoleum. This leafy promenade is still in the hands of the descendants of the old royal family. By 1750, the garden hung up its apron-no more veggies. From then on, it was all about dazzling plant lovers, not feeding hungry courtiers.

Somewhere along the winding paths, architect Georg Ludwig Friedrich Laves built a fine house for the garden master around 1820. If you hear the faint rustle of pages, that’s the library now nestled there-a peaceful pavilion filled with centuries of plant lore.

Oh, and the palm house! Built by Laves in 1849, it was once Europe’s crown jewel for palm collectors-a lush, soaring temple of glass and steel, fountains splashing below. If you think your living room ferns are fancy, picture the grandest collection in Europe, right here! Sadly, it was destroyed in World War II air raids. The palace of palms was lost, and later in the 1950s, dismantled for good. But sometimes, beauty comes back in surprising ways-like the elegant sundial, made by London’s John Rowley in 1719. It’s so precise, it tells time down to half a minute. That’s more accurate than my jokes! The sundial survived theft, ransom, and a daring rescue in the 1980s, only to be faithfully rebuilt. You can see it today, steadily marking the hours as it has for three centuries.

Wander a bit further and you’ll find glasshouses-12,000 species spanning every climate, including Europe’s finest orchid show, standing proud beside sweet-smelling heaths and mysterious moors. There once was a Canary Island house, now being replaced by a state-of-the-art three-part conservatory, promising even more exotic trees and clouds of brilliant butterflies.

Remember that enormous rainforest house built for Expo 2000? Tropical birds, cheeky frogs, and butterflies fluttering around. Sadly, it was too costly to run, so now it’s a tropical aquarium-the very first of its kind almost entirely dedicated to rainforest species. Sharks, turtles, and a deep-sea tank with 300,000 liters of water now share space with lingering echoes of rain and distant calls of the jungle.

Even the trees here have their own story: look out for two incredible Süntel beeches-twisted and sprawling, legends in their own right from the Süntel range.

So as you stroll through flower-scented air, remember: the Berggarten isn’t just a garden. It’s a living, changing tapestry of ambition, chance, and a little royal whimsy. And if you lose track of time, just ask the sundial-it’s never late for a good story.

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