Ah, welcome to the dazzling entrance of the Museum of Romanity! You’re standing here in the shadow of the great Roman arena, but across the street, the city’s most modern treasure awaits you-and trust me, this place is as bright and shiny as the glass toga it wears. Yes, you heard that right. This contemporary building by Elizabeth de Portzamparc wraps itself in folds of glass designed to mimic the sway of a Roman toga in the breeze-because apparently, even buildings in Nîmes like to dress with a bit of flair.
Open since June 2, 2018, the museum is an ode to the city’s long, enthralling relationship with Rome-a relationship that, at times, has been a bit like a soap opera, full of dramatic conquests, grand gestures, and the occasional neighborhood makeover. The Museum of Romanity is more than just a proud display case for old rocks. Step inside, and you’ll find yourself surrounded by 65 multimedia devices. Interactive screens, augmented reality, immersive movies-it might feel like the Romans left us their WiFi passwords! Each platform tells you about Nîmes’ origins, bringing history to life so vividly you might just start checking your pockets for a stray legionary’s denarius.
The heart of the building is its spectacular central atrium, adorned with ancient fragments of a monumental pediment-a sort of ancient billboard advertising Nîmes’ epic past. Feel the cool, modern walls as you imagine the buzz of Roman sandals hurrying across mosaic floors almost two millennia ago. Speaking of mosaics, if you’re a fan of “before and after” stories, wait until you see the museum’s pride: the “Achilles” and “Pentheus” mosaics. Discovered during a routine construction dig in 2006-one can only imagine the surprise on those archaeologists’ faces!-these masterworks have been described as the most beautiful Roman mosaics in France after those in Pompeii. So if you think all archaeological finds are just broken pots, these will certainly change your mind.
The museum itself is the result of a fierce creative rivalry. It all started when Mayor Jean-Paul Fournier was inspired to create a new, world-class showcase for Nîmes’ ancient treasures-he wanted to display these rarest works, long hidden in the old Jesuit cloister museum. So, in 2012, three famed architects competed for the honor: Rudy Ricciotti, Richard Meier, and Elizabeth de Portzamparc. Imagine the drama-three visionaries, three models, only one winner! Ultimately, Portzamparc’s glass toga won the day. The cornerstone was laid in 2015, and soon after, gigantic relics-like the majestic Bellerophon mosaic-arrived by crane, creating a buzz in the city. It’s not every day you see history airlifted down the street!
But this isn’t just a museum stuck in ancient times. Here, you’ll time travel-from the world of the Gauls, with a reconstructed Gallic house filled with the sights and sounds of pre-Roman life, to the glory days of the Empire. You’ll peek into daily Roman routines, see what people wore (spoiler: togas are making a comeback in museum architecture), how they cooked, even how they decorated their homes. There are objects of all sorts-jars, jewelry, coins, even a restored Roman domus where you can almost hear the echoes of a long-lost dinner party.
Travel further through time, and you’ll stumble into the medieval era. Nîmes shrinks as the centuries pass, and the city’s colossal Roman arena-instead of gladiators-bristles with medieval houses and a church smack dab in the middle. Over time, some of these medieval relics were buried, built over, or repurposed: history loves a good renovation! At the museum, you can see chunks of medieval sculpture-worn faces, mischievous stone creatures-which survived centuries of change.
But don’t forget, the museum hosts ever-changing temporary exhibits, too. One year you might walk into the world of gladiators, the next, Pompeii, or even an emperor’s life among the gods. There’s always a surprise in store-perfect for those who suffer from chronic museum déjà vu.
Let’s not forget the roof! Climb to the terrace and you’ll get a panoramic sweep of the city’s most iconic landmarks-a moment to catch your breath and imagine all the centuries you’ve just traveled in a few footsteps.
So, are you ready to step inside a city’s living memory, where Romans, Gauls, medieval knights, and modern art lovers all bump shoulders-sometimes literally, if there’s a big crowd? The Museum of Romanity is calling you in; after all, Nîmes has always been a city with a taste for the spectacular. And if you get lost, just follow the trail of glittering glass. Now, onward to our next stop-history’s got a lot more in store, and I promise, the best is yet to come!
Intrigued by the history of the musée de la romanité project, the permanent exhibition or the temporary exhibitions? Explore further by joining me in the chat section below.
