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Stop 5 of 17

Saint Mary Church

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Take a look in front of you-Saint Mary Church in Haret el-Roum, right here in the heart of Cairo’s winding streets! Imagine you’re stepping back in time three centuries, and the scent of frankincense is in the air, mingling with the hum of Coptic prayers floating from inside. This isn’t just any church; it’s been lovingly called the Church of the Virgin of Relief, a place where people rushed for comfort and hope.

Now, picture the year 1660. The Coptic community is bustling around you, and their leader-Pope Matthew IV-has just decided to move the headquarters of the entire Coptic Orthodox Church to this very spot! That’s right, from 1660 until 1800, this church was essentially the “Vatican” of Cairo. You can almost imagine cardinals (okay, Coptic Popes) in their finest robes walking these very stones, making mighty decisions. Some of them never left-they’re buried right here.

The church has survived more drama than a Cairo soap opera. It’s been rebuilt again and again, most notably in 1794, when a generous fellow named Ibrahim El-Gohary gave it a grand makeover. But disaster struck soon after-a fire raged through these walls during Pope Mark VIII’s time. Did the church give up? Never! The community rallied, restored, and rebuilt-again.

As you stand here, listen for echoes of ancient hymns and the spirit of resilience that has kept this church at the heart of Coptic life for centuries. Now, how’s that for a miracle in the Roman Quarter?

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