To spot Mostates over the Devil’s, look right in front of you for a modest bridge lined with an ornate metal railing, crossing over a gentle stream and framed by historic buildings-you really can’t miss it!
Welcome to one of Prague’s best-kept secrets-the bridges over Čertovka, or as locals affectionately call it, “The Devil’s Stream.” Now, don’t worry, you’re not about to cross into another dimension or meet any horned creatures-the only devilish thing around here is how easily these bridges can charm you! Right beneath your feet, winding like a shadowy ribbon, the Čertovka canal slices across Kampa, carrying with it centuries of secrets, laughter, and maybe a few mischievous legends.
So, picture this: centuries ago, enterprising folks had all sorts of big plans for this spot-some even dreamed of a grand boulevard stretching across Kampa. By the end of the 1800s, Jindřich Jechenthal, an ambitious businessman, wanted to extend the Malostranské waterfront right across the canal. City plans from 1910 had the same idea. But, thankfully for us walkers and romantics, those plans never came to life! Thank the “Club for Old Prague” for that-these defenders of the city’s historical soul stood their ground, determined to keep Kampa enchanting and Čertovka unburied. Their fight, sometimes dramatic (imagine meetings with coffee, arguments, and grand gestures beneath flickering gas lamps!), helped preserve the quirky bridges and footpaths you see today.
Now, while you’re taking in the ironwork of this particular bridge, imagine splitting yourself into three or four people at once-because each bridge here has its own personality. Take the wooden footbridge to the Huť mill. It creaks under your steps like it’s whispering the secrets of old millers, or maybe plotting how to tip your coffee into the canal if you’re not careful. Or look for the restaurant bridge, a small, one-arch affair with colored keystones where guests once hustled past, bellies rumbling for a taste of traditional fare hidden just beyond Čertovka’s edge.
The most famous crossing, though, has to be the “Lovers’ Bridge” by Velkopřevorský Mill. If you look a little further along, you’ll spot it-covered in love locks, proving that not even cold iron can escape Prague’s romantic spell. Legend has it, inspired by a tradition from the Milvian Bridge in Italy (where Saint Valentine supposedly met an unfortunate end-talk about dramatic love stories!), couples lock their names here and toss the key into the water below, sealing their love and secretly annoying generations of city engineers.
Every one of these bridges has a tale-some used for sneaking into gardens, others for crossing into theaters or simply for delivering fresh bread in the dawn light. Over your head, you might even spot the sturdy road bridge, built for heavier ambitions, stretching from one side of the street to the other.
Beneath it all, swans and ducks glide quietly, probably quite amused at how the humans above seem to spend so much time kissing, chatting, and taking photos. And as you stand here, try to listen: you might just catch the echoes of the past-footsteps, laughter, a distant love song, or perhaps that faint “click” of one more lock snapping shut on the bridge of the Devil’s Stream.
Let’s keep moving, but give one last glance down at the water… just in case you spot a devilish little tail vanishing around the next bend. Onward we go!
Ready to delve deeper into the southern bridge, 2nd bridge or the bridge at the grand priory mill? Join me in the chat section for an enriching discussion.
