On your left stands a massive five-story structure of grey concrete and iron, distinguished by its neoclassical cornices and a modern glass-enclosed top floor that contrasts with the historic arches below.
This is the Gran Hotel Costa Rica. When it opened its doors in 1930, this wasn't just a place to sleep... it was the center of the universe for San José. Before this, the country didn't have a hotel that met the high standards of international luxury. So, the government teamed up with a wealthy doctor named Luis Paulino Jiménez Ortiz to build a palace that would attract foreign tourists and prove that Costa Rica was a modern nation.
For decades, if you were a celebrity, a diplomat, or royalty, this is where you stayed. We are talking about guests like John Wayne, the soccer legend Pelé, and various U.S. Presidents. But my absolute favorite story is about John F. Kennedy.
When JFK visited in March 1963, his trip was a massive diplomatic event, but it came with a very specific logistical headache. Because of his severe back pain from World War II injuries, the President had to swim every single day for physical therapy. The problem? This grand hotel didn't have a pool.
The solution was incredibly complicated. The hotel owners offered up their private summer home in the suburb of Escazú, which did have a pool. Every single day, the Secret Service had to organize a discrete but complex motorcade just to shuttle the most powerful man in the world from his suite here to a backyard pool so he could do his exercises away from the public eye.
Then there is the story of the Mexican comedian Cantinflas. In 1985, he tried to visit San José incognito. He arrived on a Norwegian ship wearing a sailor's beret and thick glasses, hoping to blend in. He actually managed to walk down the busy avenue right outside without being mobbed. He slipped into the hotel lobby to make a phone call, thinking he was safe. But a sharp-eyed cashier looked up and asked, "Are you Mario Moreno?"
Cantinflas realized the jig was up. He smiled and replied, "Yes, Cantinflas, for more detail." He later admitted that while he wanted privacy, he secretly loved that the people here knew him so well.
It hasn't all been glitz and glamour, though. This corner is a stage for power, and sometimes that gets dangerous. During a failed coup in 1949 known as the Cardonazo, the hotel was caught in the crossfire. A militia leader positioned his troops nearby to shoot at a rebel tank. The guests became involuntary spectators to a gunfight right outside their balconies.
If you look up at that top floor, you might notice the glass looks very modern. That is the source of a huge recent controversy. That fifth floor used to have arches that matched the rest of the building. When a hotel chain renovated it recently, they replaced the historic style with modern glass. Critics called it a "historical fake" and the dispute got so heated that prosecutors raided the cultural heritage offices to investigate!
It just goes to show that in this city, even the architecture fights a battle between preserving the past and pushing for the new. Now, let's leave the high society behind and turn toward the spiritual center of the city. We are heading to the Archdiocese of San José.
