To spot the Place Royale, look ahead for a grand and open rectangular square paved with stone, centered around a proud statue of a crusader on horseback, with a beautiful white neoclassical church-topped with a dome and clock-watching over everything from the far side.
Welcome to Place Royale, Brussels' very own royal stage! Take a moment, spin around, and imagine you're surrounded by the echoes of centuries-old footsteps. The wide, open square beneath your feet is older than the recipe for Belgian waffles, and it’s seen more drama than a season of your favorite reality show. Ah, right on cue-a little reminder of the parades and royal processions that once thundered across these stones!
This area wasn't always so grand. Hundreds of years ago, it was the Place des Bailles, where medieval markets bustled right up against the majestic Palace of Coudenberg. That palace was more than just a royal home-it was the heart of power for dukes, kings, and emperors across centuries. But then, one cold night in 1731, disaster struck. Fire tore through the royal residence, and what was left was a messy heap of ruins, charmingly named the "Burnt Court" by the locals.
For more than forty years, the site sat in smoky ruin-no palace, no parades, just the ghosts of history haunting the stones. But then, Prince Charles Alexander of Lorraine had a spark of inspiration. Forget about rebuilding the palace, he thought, let’s turn these ruins into something monumental, like the royal squares in France! Approval from Empress Maria Theresa set off a construction frenzy between 1775 and 1782, following plans by two French architects-Barré and Guimard.
You see that stunning symmetry all around you? That's pure neoclassical perfection! Place Royale was designed to impress, and it still does. The square stretches out crystal-clear, 77 by 113 meters, every building echoing the same elegant style. If you look closer, you'll spot eight beautiful pavilions, each with its own story. Over here, the Magritte Museum sits in what used to be the Hôtel du Lotto, while another pavilion once belonged to the brewers’ guild-talk about having neighbors with good taste!
And in the very center, rising above the cobblestones, there's the heroic equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon. He’s the guy waving a banner, about to shout "Dieu le veut!" ("God wills it!") as he rides off for the First Crusade, nearly a thousand years ago. Fun fact: the first statue here was of Charles Alexander himself, but it went on quite an adventure! The French revolutionaries dragged it down not once but twice, before melting it to make coins-talk about repurposing with style. They even planted a "Liberty Tree" in its place for a while. But when that tree finally fell, Godfrey rode in-made of bronze and ready to lead again.
Behind Godfrey is the neoclassical Church of St. James on Coudenberg. This beauty started as a simple chapel and ended up as the grand, pillared church you see today. Here, in 1831, the very first King of the Belgians swore his oath-a royal moment if there ever was one! But the church hasn't always had it easy. During the French Revolution, it was turned into a Temple of Reason and even later a Temple of Law. Only in 1802 did it reclaim its status as a church.
The stories don’t stop at street level either. Below your feet, hidden under the paving stones, are the remains of the old Coudenberg Palace and the legendary Aula Magna. You can even visit some of these secret underground rooms through the BELvue Museum-if you dare to wander where emperors once walked.
So next time you cross Place Royale, remember, you’re at the crossroads of royal ambition, revolutionary fervor, and centuries of Brussels’ history-now that’s what I call a dramatic backdrop for your stroll!
