But Palermo Chico’s story is even juicier than its luxury real estate listings. The first chapter goes all the way back to 1848, when Juan Manuel de Rosas - who, let’s just say, was the kind of leader you didn’t want to upset - bought this land and promptly handed it over to his loyal aide, Nicolás Mariño. After a series of handovers, marriages, and property swaps (which, let’s be real, sounds a bit like a particularly dramatic soap opera), the land was hosting everything from horse farms to exhibitions. You can thank the aristocrat Saturnino Unzué for all those galloping horses.
Fast forward to the early 20th century and you’ll find these streets bustling with preparation for Buenos Aires' Centenary celebrations. Spot the curves and diagonals? Those reflect Thays' radical vision for a city freed from straight streets and boring blocks. On one side of what is now Figueroa Alcorta Avenue, there was a symmetrical, elegant public plaza. On the other side, an almost whimsical, circular street plan around a block and a leafy passage called Ombú. These were the beginnings of a playground for architects: huge houses, little Tudor-style hotels, and even palaces like the Errazuriz Palace, which is now the National Museum of Decorative Arts (and yes, that’s coming up soon on our tour).
Today, if you glance at the sleek buildings on Avenida del Libertador or Figueroa Alcorta, you’ll see the new face of Palermo Chico. But nestled between them are still the old mansions with their wrought iron gates and gardens, where millionaires and celebrities like Mirtha Legrand or Susana Giménez call home. Fun fact: the average neighbor here probably owns more staff uniforms than kitchen utensils.
But the grandeur of Palermo Chico isn’t just its luxury. Notice the embassies? There’s enough diplomatic immunity here to host a secret summit. Spain, Switzerland, Morocco, you name it - they’re all neighbors. You might say local parties have pretty interesting guest lists.
One curious note in this picture of opulence: the train tracks just a stone’s throw away divide this high society area from Villa 31, one of the city’s poorest neighborhoods. It’s an eye-opening contrast, a reminder of the many layers of Buenos Aires.
Don’t miss Plaza Alemania at Libertador and Cavia, where Germany gifted a jaw-dropping marble and bronze fountain to Argentina - not something you get for your birthday every year! So, enjoy the tree-lined curves and imagine yourself living in one of these mansions. But fair warning: if you suddenly get an urge to host a masquerade ball or start raising horses, Palermo Chico has that effect on people!
