トロンハイム オーディオツアー：アイスリンクから歩兵壕まで

To spot Bakke Church, just look for the tall, pointed green steeple rising above a striking octagonal red wooden building right across the street-it's pretty hard to miss! Now, while you’re standing here on the edge of Bakklandet, gaze up at that rich red wood and the elegant green spire-imagine the air alive with the sounds of busy carpenters and the soft echo of hammering wood from over three centuries ago. Back in 1715, this octagonal church was built following the plans of Johan Christopher Hempel, and, rumor has it, the bishop of the time tried to name it after his wife, Anna Dorothea. Fun fact: he might’ve been the only one who actually called it that-imagine trying to start a trend that nobody follows but you! People in Bakklandet were so eager to have their own church that they tithed generously, but their efforts didn’t go down without some good old-fashioned priestly squabbling. The local priests insisted that the old Lade Church was far too small and way too far, so it was settled: Bakklandet would have its own grand, octagonal church. Two skilled carpenters-Johan Pedersen Graasten and Johan Henrik Helmers-got to work, using the blueprints from the nearby hospital church but giving it a supersized twist. When Bakke Church was finished, it quickly became the heart of the neighborhood. Here’s where the story takes an action-packed twist! Picture 1718, the Swedish army marches in, the city is under siege, and flames threaten Trondheim. Fires devastated the area, but this church-like a cool superhero in a red costume-miraculously survived. It remains the oldest building in Bakklandet, stubbornly holding its ground through the centuries. But Bakke Church’s adventures didn’t stop there. Fast forward to the 1900s: cars are roaring through the streets, and after World War I, the main road was expanded so close that the church practically had a front-row seat to traffic jams. When the new Bakke Bridge opened in 1927, the city started thinking, “Maybe it’s time to knock this old thing down.” But Trondheim folks love a good underdog! Instead of demolishing it, they shut the doors, broke out the jacks, and-in one of the oddest moving days you can imagine-lifted the whole church and shifted it several meters to a new foundation. Three years later, after lots of restoration and creative engineering, Bakke Church reopened, looking fresh and ready for its next century. Peek through the windows or just take in the peaceful setting-the church now welcomes not only the Church of Norway’s congregation but also Trondheim’s tiny Eastern Orthodox community, since they don’t have a building of their own. Talk about sharing the love! Imagine all the tales these old wood planks have heard, the footsteps and whispered prayers, the city whirring and changing all around it. So as you stand here soaking up the history, picture this grand old church enduring fire, siege, noisy car horns, and even a literal move down the street. Bakke Church is proof that sometimes, the buildings with the quirkiest tales and the oddest moves become the true heart of a neighborhood!

Take a good look at this building before you. It’s not just any old school-it’s a place where creativity flows as freely as Norwegian coffee! Welcome to the Trondheim Academy of Fine Art, where artists have been busy dreaming, sketching, and painting since just after World War II. Imagine those early years: Trondheim was rebuilding, and the city needed color, imagination, maybe even a little mischief. And what better way to bring it all back than with a brand new art academy? By 1979, this place had grown into a full college, buzzing with students eager to express themselves. Then, in 1987, it leveled up: officially becoming a state art academy. But the story doesn’t end there-plot twist! In 1996, the academy merged with the Norwegian University of Science and Technology. Not every college can say it got to join forces with Norway’s biggest university-talk about an artful alliance. Right now, if you listen closely, you might almost hear faint echoes of laughter, the tap of brushes, a quiet debate about cubism versus realism-or maybe it’s just someone searching for the paint thinner again! This place has seen countless projects and late-night bursts of inspiration, and every splatter of paint tells a story of ambition. Shall we see what creative surprises Trondheim has in store next?

To spot Solsiden, look for a striking mix of old red brick factory walls and glass ceilings just ahead of you-it stands out with its modern stairs and bustling, stylish shopfronts. Welcome to Solsiden, Trondheim’s lively hotspot that used to clang and bang with the sounds of heavy machinery! Imagine standing here over a hundred years ago-this place was no trendy shopping center, but a mighty shipyard called Trondhjems Mekaniske Værksted, where giant metal parts crashed together all day long. Today, you’d never guess this cool shopping paradise was once filled with shipbuilders instead of shoppers. In October 2000, after the yard’s last whistle had blown, the old factory was reborn, mixing its industrial bones with glass, light, and the hum of modern life. Now, you can wander through 60 shops (yes, there’s even a spa), or maybe pop outside to the river for some of Trondheim’s best food-13 restaurants await you by the sparkling water! Want to know where everyone parks? There are 650 spots hidden around, so it’s almost a local mystery how you always find a place. So, take a deep breath and picture all those old shipbuilders relaxing here today-though I bet they never enjoyed a latte mid-shift like you can!

You’ll spot Lademoen Station by looking for a simple, modern platform with a tall sign saying “Lademoen,” metal bins, and a small glass shelter overlooking the straight stretch of railway tracks-just past the blue-wrapped buildings and construction crane. Welcome to Lademoen Station-or should I say, Lademoen/Nedre Elvehavn, depending on whom you ask! This stop is a fresh face in Trondheim’s railway family, only opening its doors in 2007, yet it sits surrounded by the energetic hum of city life. If you pause and listen, you might catch the distant, a little reminder that this is a heart-thumping crossroads for students, professionals, and locals alike. From here, you’re just under a kilometer from Trondheim’s Central Station and only six meters above sea level-talk about traveling at ground level! But aha, don’t let the calm fool you. The tale of this spot has the kind of identity confusion that would make even the savviest city historian scratch their head. Years ago, this part of town was home to a thriving industrial site, Trondheims Mekaniske Verksted, until progress called for urban renewal. When the time came to name the station, local politicians decided, “Let’s be traditional!”-so they picked “Lademoen.” Problem is, the original Lademoen Station had moved to another neighborhood and taken on the name “Lilleby.” Now, humor me here: the ‘Lademoen’ you’re standing at is actually in Nedre Elvehavn, while the ‘Lilleby’ stop is up in what used to be Lademoen. Still with me? You’d need a map and maybe a cup of coffee just to keep up. Nowadays, you’re in the middle of life’s hustle-surrounded by big business names, students from the Academy of Fine Art, and the buzz of Solsiden. As you soak up the chilly air and the click of footsteps on the platform, remember: every platform here tells the story of a city forever reinventing itself, and sometimes getting hilariously tangled up in its own history. So, keep your ticket handy and your sense of direction even handier!

Look for a massive, fortress-like concrete structure right by the water, with its chunky gray walls and flat, sprawling roof dominating the shoreline-it's hard to miss, just across the road from the smaller buildings and close to the docks. Alright, time to step back in time! Imagine yourself in the chaos and clatter of 1942 wartime Trondheim. Right in front of you stands Dora II, a giant that seems ripped straight from a wartime movie set. Today, it might be a rather peculiar place for boats, cars, and warehouses, but let your imagination run wild for a moment-because this didn’t start as an ordinary building. This hulking block of concrete was meant to be a submarine fortress for the German navy, or Kriegsmarine, during World War II. Back then, Trondheim went by the name Drontheim in German. The name "Dora" isn’t nearly as friendly as it sounds-it's actually the letter "D" in the German phonetic alphabet. So if you ever meet a submarine enthusiast called Dora, be careful what questions you ask! When the Germans occupied Norway in 1940, they realized their speedy underwater boats-U-boats-needed more than just a cozy nook for repairs. They needed concrete castles to keep them safe from attacks raining down from above. Thus began a frantic building spree for submarine pens up and down the coast. The neighboring Dora I was finished and quickly packed with U-boats, but Dora II wasn't so lucky. Construction started while its big brother was just wrapping up in mid-1943. Even with teams from Organisation Todt-think the world’s busiest (and bossiest) construction managers-the war’s chaos slowed things to a crawl. Only about half of Dora II was done by the time the war ended, leaving the rest of the bunker as a concrete skeleton. Just imagine, the walls you see are over 3 meters thick, and for the part of the roof that was finished, it's 3.5 meters of solid gray-thicker than many bank vaults! After the war, when the dust and drama settled, the Norwegian port authority came in for a bit of cleanup. They blasted away unfinished parts of the bunker in 1947 and 1948. The echo of those explosions must have left quite a rumble in the bones of Trondheim’s harbor! These days, instead of harboring shadowy submarines, Dora II is much less mysterious-serving as a busy shipyard and a handy warehouse. It's a quiet giant now, but if you listen closely, maybe you can still hear the clank of tools and the muffled orders from the men who poured their sweat into this stubborn slice of World War II history. Keep moving, explorer-the next story is just ahead!

To spot Dora I, look for an enormous, fortress-like concrete building with thick walls and a flat roof, stretching long behind the railway tracks, topped by a modern blue upper story that almost looks like a giant, window-lined box sitting on an older, grey bunker. Now, take a deep breath and imagine you’ve just stepped back into the world of wartime Trondheim. Right in front of you stands Dora I - the city’s grandest concrete giant, a real-life relic of World War II. Behind those unyielding, grey walls is a story built with sweat, steel, and more than a little wartime drama. Back during the chaos of 1940, when Norway fell under German occupation faster than you could say “smørbrød,” German naval officers soon realized Norwegian shipyards weren’t quite up to keeping their prized U-boats afloat. So what did they do? Well, they ordered up a monstrous bunker to keep their submarines safe from the relentless eyes in the sky. And believe me, when the Germans say “bunker,” they really mean it: Dora I’s concrete roof is thicker than a stubborn Norwegian winter, with over three meters of grumpy, steel-reinforced protection! Construction began in 1941, with the Todt Organization and Sager & Wörner from Munich managing the show. Their hired hands, however, were mostly forced laborers dragged in from occupied lands, including many Serbians. The worksite became a tough, tense world, with workers battling cold, hunger, and each other’s languages as much as they battled with backbreaking construction. Listen carefully - doesn’t this place just hum with echoes of clanging tools and shouted orders? Here’s one chilling rumor that kept the workers up at night: when a wall collapsed, five Serbian workers lost their lives, and some whispered that their bodies-like curses-remained forever sealed in the concrete slabs. German engineers decided that didn’t make for sound construction, though, so the truth is a bit more mundane - the bodies were removed, but the legend lingers in the air like the smell of old diesel fuel. But it wasn’t just tough labor; getting enough building material was like trying to collect sunshine in a bucket. Norway, with its picturesque wooden houses, proved a terrible supplier of concrete. Sand, gravel, and steel often had to be shipped in over seas rougher than a bear on a unicycle. Roads and railway tracks vanished regularly under heaps of snow and ice, and even the prefab huts shipped in for workers ended up being as useful as a chocolate teapot. Sometimes the only thing running on schedule were the rumors! Dora I was supposed to have a grand second floor with offices and workshops, but after all these headaches, they abandoned that plan. The land itself was soft and muddy, making the structure settle like a tired sumo wrestler. In fact, the whole bunker sagged up to 15 centimeters. Building Dora I was a Herculean task, but eventually, in 1943, it opened its submarine jaws to the German Kriegsmarine as the home base for the mighty 13th U-boat Flotilla. These roaring steel monsters would glide in and out of their blast-proof garage, hiding from overhead bombers. The Allies did try to knock this place out, and in 1943 and ’44, you’d have heard the thunder of distant bombs and read reports of big delays and heavy destruction on the surrounding area. Yet the Dora I bunker itself came away with only minor bruises-tough cookie, this one. Then came the war’s end. The Germans surrendered, and you can almost picture the moment: silence, only the restless lap of water and footsteps echoing through the cavernous pen. There were plans to blow up Dora I with dynamite, but local officials soon realized that would add a little too much “open-plan” to the neighborhood, not to mention some serious property damage. Instead, Norwegian submariners made themselves at home until the 1950s-yes, keeping their own fleet inside what was once the enemy’s fortress! Later, two blue-painted stories were added, making the building look like someone tried to put a trendy hat on an ancient viking. Today, these submarine pens, which once bristled with secrets and danger, are filled with archivists, bowlers, business folks, and civilian boats bobbing gently in the pen. If these concrete walls could talk, they’d surely have a few salty tales to share-and perhaps, just perhaps, a joke about how they used to house fleets and now they shelter bowling shoes. So take it all in: thick, battered, and stubbornly standing-Dora I turned from fortress of war to warehouse of memories. If you listen closely, you might just hear the whispers of the past blending into the laughter and life of today.

To spot Strandveien, just look ahead for a long, straight street lined with old wooden houses and cobblestones, where the buildings almost lean into the narrow sidewalk right in front of you. Now, close your eyes and imagine the salty tang of air from the old Ladestranden, with the sound of footsteps echoing on cobblestones and sharp laughter drifting from clusters of wooden houses. This is Strandveien, a road that has seen more stories than a well-worn library book! Back in 1878, it was named simply for being so close to the beach-how’s that for truthful advertising? But the street’s charm didn’t stop at the shore. Workers crowded into small homes here, especially in a lively patch known as Kolonien, where neighbors chatted over fences, and children turned every puddle into a playground. Mind you, not everything was picture-perfect; some stretches had rough edges and slum-like homes, crammed together as if they were huddling for warmth on a chilly Trondheim night. Then came the war, stirring things up like stormy weather-much of the area was swept away to make room for factories and industry, erasing the old rhythms of daily life. Still, hints of its past linger in the walls and the air. Stand here for just a moment, and you might hear ghostly echoes of railway whistles from Lademoen Station, or catch the yeasty scent from E.C. Dahls Brewery further down. Strandveien’s heart beats on, carrying secrets in every squeaky floorboard and sun-faded sign.

To spot E.C. Dahls bryggeri, just look ahead for a large, bright white industrial building with a striking castle-like tower near one end, standing tall beside the road with the proud "DAHLS" name written on the side. Welcome to E.C. Dahls bryggeri-the crown jewel of Trondheim’s brewing scene, where history is as rich as the foam on a freshly poured pilsner. If you listen closely, you might just hear the clinking of bottles and the cheerful chatter of brewmasters echoing through time. Let’s travel back to 1856. Trondheim is bustling, and a man named Erich Christian Dahl, who had already made his fortune trading grain and salted herring, is about to shape the city’s future. He acquired a place called the Sukkerhuset and, after a couple years of banging pipes and rearranging barrels, he started what would soon become Norway’s mightiest northern brewery. And get this: the very first beer, a golden Bayer, was bottled just a year later. You can almost picture the townsfolk queuing up to see what all the fuss was about-a new beer, light and fresh, made by skilled hands like that of Christopher Olsen, the carpenter-turned-brewmaster with just a few months’ brewery training under his belt. Trondheim’s pubs and the city’s thirsty workers quickly discovered Dahl’s secret: his beer not only tasted good, it stayed good, even on journeys as far off as Rio de Janeiro. Since those early days, E.C. Dahls has always thought big. It grew from a humble operation to a roaring industrial powerhouse with noisy steam engines and workers bustling between massive vats. For a while, it was the largest brewery north of the Dovre mountains. Talk about climbing the “brewer’s ladder!” Now, Erich Christian Dahl himself rose to become one of Norway’s wealthiest men, reportedly leaving behind a fortune of 1.6 million kroner-quite a nest egg for a man who started out shipping fish and wheat. After he passed away, the brewery was snapped up by some of Trondheim’s most ambitious business families, like the Lysholms, who added their own flair and even started brewing special seasonal beers like the famous Lysholmer Spesialøl. But brewing in Trondheim wasn’t always friendly neighborly competition-it was, at times, a real foam fight! In 1966, after years of spirited rivalry (and perhaps a few heated discussions over a barrel or two), E.C. Dahls merged with the city’s other top brewery, Aktiebryggeriet. This merger was like two rival football teams joining forces to create a super-squad-there was excitement, tension, and maybe a little suspicion at first, but it led to a powerhouse that brewed everything from pilsner to mineral water. By the 1970s and 1980s, E.C. Dahls was branching out, even buying up breweries as far north as Bodø. The factory’s roar filled the air, and truck after truck rolled down Strandveien, loaded with crates of beer and bottles of soda. Speaking of soda, for over a hundred years, this place was also Trondheim’s own soda fountain, churning out everything from selters water to apple-flavored Solo and holiday-favorite julebrus. People here love their ginger ale with local dishes like sodd-so if you get a chance to try it, you’re tasting a real piece of tradition! All along, E.C. Dahls stayed at the heart of Trondheim’s party scene, fueling celebrations and quiet evenings both. Even after it merged with larger groups like Ringnes and ultimately Carlsberg, the brewery never lost its local charm. In 2016, after a major renovation, these gates opened wide to visitors-that means you can not only taste the history but walk through it, explore the machinery, or enjoy a beer in the stylish Pub and Kitchen. And let’s not forget the beer! From the dark bayer of old to today’s Dahls Pils and bold craft brews like Ramp Pale Ale, Bolt IPA, and Passion Fruit Sour, the taps never run dry. E.C. Dahls’ ingenuity has been recognized across the continent, bagging gold medals at the European Beer Challenge for their ultra-crisp Dahls Pils and bold, wintry flavors of Kong Vinter. So take a breath-can you smell that hint of malt in the air? Behind these stately white walls, over 160 years of laughter, labor, and legend are still alive and well, just waiting for you to sample. Cheers to that!