To spot Hoa Phong Tower, look just beside the lakeside pavement for a small three-tiered brick tower with arched doorways on every side and mysterious calligraphy decorating its upper levels, shaded by thick leafy trees.
Alright, take a deep breath-do you feel that warm humid air curling around you, with the sounds of scooters whizzing by and the soft reflection of Hoan Kiem Lake shimmering nearby? That’s the perfect setting for the last legend of our journey: the story of Hoa Phong Tower. Imagine yourself standing here in the early morning mist, more than 180 years ago. In this very spot, there wasn’t just one solitary tower but a majestic and sprawling Buddhist temple called Báo Ân, or “Temple of Gratitude.” Built in 1842 under the Nguyen dynasty, this temple wasn’t just a home for prayers and monks-it was an architectural marvel! It was massive, boasting 180 intricate rooms, built with the finest craftsmanship of the era. It sat with its back against the tranquil lake, and its face turned toward the fast-flowing Red River, catching every sunrise and sunset.
Picture the busy sounds from those days-clattering wooden sandals, merchants shouting, monks chanting, the occasional fish vendor sneakily offering a quick snack (because, let’s be honest, monks need snacks too). Báo Ân Temple was constructed thanks to the efforts of Nguyen Dang Giai, the governor of Ha Ninh, who inspired people all across the land to chip in. It was a community affair, and the spirit of gratitude ran through its halls.
But-cue the dramatic music-trouble arrived in 1888, when the French colonists marched in, looking for a place to build the Hanoi Post Office. Apparently, they had a thing for prime real estate! In a move that would make any preservationist break out in tears, they tore down almost the entire temple, leaving only one survivor, peering out over the ruins like the last chess piece on the board: Hoa Phong Tower. The rest of the splendid temple disappeared beneath the construction of the post office, but the tower stood strong, perhaps with a bit of temple magic holding its bricks together through all the chaos.
Now, let’s take a closer look at what survived. Hoa Phong Tower is a three-story structure, each layer with its own secrets. The first level is known as the “Four Gate Tower,” because, naturally, it’s got four arched doorways, one on each side, as if inviting travelers and spirits alike to come in from every direction. It’s a familiar sight in Buddhist architecture, meant to welcome everyone, no matter where they wander in from (well, except maybe the French, in this case-too soon?). And as your eyes climb up from those heavy old bricks, faded with time, you’ll notice the second tier, where a bold Sanskrit character is displayed, etched into the stone with all the ancient dignity the original builders could muster. Just above the arches, you can spot the old names of the gateways: Bao Ân, Bao Nghia, Bao Duc, and Bao Phuc. Each name boasts a wish-gratitude, justice, virtue, and blessing-all the essentials for a good life.
Now, you might be wondering: what’s the third story for? Up there, if you’re sharp-eyed or happen to have binocular vision, you’ll see the words “Hoa Phong” on the east and west faces. But turn around to the north or south-surprise!-it reads “Bao Thien Tower” instead. Was it confused about its own name? Or just showing off? The answer is lost to history; maybe the wind knew once, but it’s not telling.
Think about this: nearly every brick you see here is original. Maybe if you press your ear to them, you’d hear whispers from old monks, playful cackling of temple kids, or echoes of worried architects as the post office walls rose ominously close… and yet Hoa Phong stood strong. It’s not a grand tower-no dramatic spires, no gilded decorations-but it’s a survivor, a humble keeper of the past right in the bustle of modern Hanoi.
And so, as you stand here now, a traveler among many, take a moment to appreciate this little tower’s stubborn spirit. Through invasions and new generations and all the changes of Hanoi street life, Hoa Phong continues to look out over Hoan Kiem Lake, guarding a piece of gratitude, a slice of mystery, and a whole heap of history-one brick, one tier, one legend at a time.
