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Stop 11 of 16

Blue Wing Inn

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Alright, take a moment to get a real good look at the Blue Wing Inn in front of you. It looks pretty unassuming now, but this spot has worn just about every hat Sonoma had to offer-tavern, hotel, gambling joint, stagecoach depot, general store, and even a winery at one point. It started off back in the 1830s as a humble adobe for Mariano Vallejo’s majordomo, Antonio Ortega. Ortega’s main gig was helping wind down the mission next door-well, that and apparently running afoul of just about everyone, including the local priest. When things soured, Ortega did what you might expect a disgraced employee to do: he stuck around and started serving drinks out of his adobe.

Now, flash forward to 1849-the Gold Rush is in full swing, and the property gets snapped up by James Cooper and Thomas Spriggs. If there was money to be made, these guys would find it. They didn’t just add rooms-a second story, a balcony, and a saloon went up in a hurry. Suddenly, everyone from miners with dust in their boots to U.S. Army soldiers with sore trigger fingers were coming through these doors. The place had all the makings of a proper wild west inn-gambling room, swinging saloon, kitchen and dining packed full of stories you probably shouldn’t repeat in polite company.

It went by “Sonoma House” at first, but after Spriggs died, the name changed to Blue Wing Inn. Was it named after a famous San Francisco bar? Maybe. Or it could just be that it sounded good after a few whiskeys. Either way, the Inn drew its fair share of characters. Imagine folks like Ulysses S. Grant or “General” William T. Sherman throwing down cards here before they were household names. Or infamous bandit Joaquin Murrieta slipping through for a drink. This place saw the whole parade.

James Cooper actually did quite well for himself-until the local schoolmaster killed him in a brawl after giving Cooper’s kids a thrashing. Times were rough, the law sometimes a suggestion. To put Cooper’s final windfall in context, the Inn fetched about $2,500 when it changed hands again in the early 1900s. That’s roughly $45,000 in today’s money-clearly still a bargain for a building with this much history.

After its heyday as a rowdy hotel, the Blue Wing tried a bit of everything-stagecoach stop, grocery, even a clothing shop. For a long stretch, Agostino Pinelli ran a winery here. Rumor has it, during Sonoma’s fire in 1911, gallons of wine from next door helped save the town-talk about a heroic happy hour.

Eventually, the old place started falling apart. You’d find a music box here, some tattered fire engine there, but it was mostly dusty memories by the late 1930s. It got condemned, almost torn down, until Alma Spreckels-the socialite behind much of San Francisco’s good taste-swept in and bought it to “save Sonoma’s Old Landmark.” That started a long line of patch jobs, some more creative than others. Stucco, new foundations, you name it. And now, the state’s got its hands on it, painstakingly figuring out what next. Museum, community hub, haunted hotel? Not decided yet.

So, as you stand here, you’re looking at a building that’s been rebooted more times than a Netflix series-from mission outpost to Gold Rush pit stop to grocery and back again. Whether it’s soldiers, miners, outlaws, or preservationists, everyone’s left a fingerprint. Not bad for what started as just another adobe.

Alright, ready for a change of scenery? Sonoma Grammar School is up next-just walk east for about 6 minutes. Let’s keep moving.

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