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Stop 9 of 16

Richmond Theatre

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Alright, look to your right at this spot, where the ground is thick with drama-sometimes literally. You’re standing at what was once the epicenter of entertainment, tragedy, and a fair bit of bad luck: the site of the legendary Richmond Theatre.

Let’s set the stage. The first Richmond Theatre opened in 1786, thanks to the U.S.’s resident French dreamer, Chevalier Quesnay de Beaurepaire. He wanted to create an American spin on Europe’s grand Academy of Sciences-you know, a temple of high culture with a side of interpretive dance. The theatre drew some of America’s earliest, boldest characters: James Madison, John Marshall, Patrick Henry... all mingling on these very grounds. They even hosted the Virginia Ratifying Convention here-arguably the most awkward family meeting in American political history.

But let’s not get too cozy. Richmond Theatre had a nasty habit of catching fire. The first version was torched in 1798-a tough review, even by today’s standards. Not discouraged, folks built a new, fancier brick theatre in exactly the same place. But then came the big one: On December 26, 1811, during a packed holiday show, a candlelit chandelier swung a bit too enthusiastically, ignited some paper scenery, and in under ten minutes, the entire theatre was ablaze. It was pandemonium-over 600 in the crowd, but barely three exits. At least 76 people died, including Virginia’s sitting governor. It was called “early America’s first great disaster”-and after that, the city put up Monumental Church next door as a sort of architectural apology, with a crypt for 72 of the fire’s victims.

There’s something sobering about standing here, imagining fire-lit chaos, the cries, the smoke, and-just outside-locals like John Marshall racing to help, utterly helpless against the flames.

Still, Richmond couldn’t quit show business. By 1819, Broadway-it was Broad Street, after all-had a new cast: The third incarnation, known as the Marshall Theatre, boasted “plenty of doors”... Imagine the promotional tagline: “Now with more exits!” It lured ambitious actors including Priscilla Cooper Tyler, future First Lady, and even American theatre royalty like Edwin and John Wilkes Booth-yes, that Booth, before he got into, well, more infamous acts.

Not to be outdone, this third theatre also met its end by fire, in 1862. The city responded with bravado, building an even grander structure in the middle of the Civil War, basically smuggling in materials past Union blockades. During the war years, a packed house would come to escape reality-a swirl of soldiers, speculators, and the Richmond who’s who, all hungry for tragedy and farce. Tickets cost a couple of dollars, which today would set you back maybe fifty bucks-a solid price for drama and a little risk.

Over more than a century, these successive Richmond Theatres were some of the South’s most vital performance spaces-hosting great actors, divine music, and, unfortunately, catastrophe. Yet every time disaster struck, Richmond rebuilt-proving that this city, like any good actor, knows how to make a comeback.

Ready for Richmond Coliseum? Just walk northeast for about 9 minutes. Don’t worry-the path is a lot less dramatic.

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