Right here on your right stands the Hippodrome Theater, which isn’t just any old brick-and-mortar-it’s pretty much a monument to entertainment, rebellion, and all-out showmanship in Richmond. The Hippodrome first flung open its doors in 1914, smack-dab in the middle of Jackson Ward, the neighborhood folks dubbed “The Harlem of the South.” If you were in Richmond in the 1920s, this was THE spot for Black nightlife-the surrounding stretch, “The Deuce,” was jammed with banks, jazz joints, and restaurants where you could catch a fried fish dinner after midnight.
Now, in an era when segregation was law and opportunity for Black artists was about as rare as a snowstorm in July, the Hippodrome was part of the “Chitlin’ Circuit.” That meant it was a haven-a place where legends like Louis Armstrong, Billie Holiday, Ray Charles, Nat King Cole, and James Brown all graced the stage. Imagine-James Brown bringing the house down, with a few hundred folks clapping and sweating in their Sunday best. Hard to put a price on those nights... but for context, a night out at the Hippodrome back then might cost you fifty cents, about $7 in today’s money. Not a bad deal for a front-row seat to history.
Of course, things weren’t always smooth. In 1945, a sudden fire-never fully explained-forced the place to close. But like all good legends, the Hippodrome refused to go quietly. By 1947, after a glitzy Art Deco makeover (new air conditioning, fresh seats, and all), reopening night drew a whopping 2,500 people-most of Jackson Ward turned out, dressed to impress.
The Hippodrome’s had more comebacks than a prizefighter: closed and reopened several times, even doubling as a church for a quick spell. Today, thanks to Ronald Stalling, it’s been restored and sees fresh performances-still making noise, still carrying its cultural weight.
Just next door sits the old Taylor Mansion, now the Speakeasy Grill. If you’re in the mood for some soul food, you’re dangerously close to the source.
Alright, ready for Jackson Ward? Just head southwest for five minutes-you’ll step right into its heart.
