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Stop 13 of 17

St Ann's Church, HMNB Portsmouth

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Right ahead, you’ll spot a handsome, red-brick chapel with tall arched windows and a distinctive green-copper cupola rising above the roof-just look past the trees and you can catch the elegant doorway and the church’s peaceful little yard.

Now, let’s step into the past for a moment. You’re standing by St Ann’s Church, the cherished heart of the Royal Navy’s spiritual life, nestled right here inside His Majesty’s Naval Base. Imagine the year is 1786: dusty red bricks in a neat Flemish bond are freshly set, and the tang of salt air mixes with the sound of hammers and saws as naval workers and stonemasons hurry about. The new chapel stands proudly where an earlier church once witnessed the hopes and fears of Portsmouth’s sailors since 1704.

Legend has it, the design was likely overseen by a Navy Board surveyor named Marquand, working for the famously precise Samuel Wyatt. But don’t worry, despite all their careful calculations, the church has seen its share of drama! In May 1941, a Luftwaffe bomb dropped nearby, rattling the steeple and leaving scars on the sturdy brickwork. She survived, though, and was lovingly restored in the 1950s-proof you can’t keep a good chapel down.

Now, every year, St Ann’s fills with memories and emotion. You can almost hear the deep hum of sailors’ voices, past and present, echoing through the pews as they remember those lost at sea. The HMS Royal Oak Association returns here each October, when the church swells with the families of those who perished on that fateful ship, sunk in 1939. On the 80th anniversary, Princess Anne herself came to unveil a new memorial, a moment heavy with quiet dignity and shared loss.

And if you listen closely, you might even feel the pride and courage in the very walls. After all, surviving centuries, bombs, and storms-St Ann’s has always had the soul of a true naval hero.

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