Right in front of you, you’ll spot a paved triangle of open space lined with grand historic buildings, dominated by the former General Post Office’s ornate clock tower on the left, and, in the center, the dramatic equestrian statue of a rider on horseback-just keep your eyes peeled for the big bronze prince surrounded by leafy trees and lamplighter statues!
Alright, take a deep breath and let your imagination wander as you stand here in the middle of City Square-once upon a time, before the roar of engines and the hum of city life, this very spot was bustling in a completely different way. Picture yourself back in the late 1800s: the Coloured Cloth Hall and Quebec House were torn down, leaving behind a patch of possibility-a public space for all. The lovely old General Post Office behind you sprouted up in 1896, and just like that, this spot became the gateway to Leeds from the railway station.
Now, when the council was debating what to call this new square, there was a brilliant suggestion to name it after John Smeaton, a famous local engineer. But here’s where the excitement kicked in-Leeds was being awarded city status that very year, so City Square was born! Just imagine the sound of the trams-clang clang!-and the bustle as public lavatories and waiting rooms sprang up to greet newcomers.
But if you think those early plans sounded a bit dull, you’re not alone! The Lord Mayor, Colonel Thomas Walter Harding, took one look and thought, “Not on my watch!” Instead, he hired William Bakewell to create something worthy of an Italian piazza, with grand statues and rows of trees-a proper place to make both locals and visitors go “Ooh!” and “Aah!” And so the transformation began.
But this peaceful square has seen tougher days as well. During World War II, the Luftwaffe targeted Leeds-one night, bombs rained down, the square’s air raid shelter was hit, and chaos echoed through the city.
Through it all, the statues in City Square have stood strong-let’s meet them. At the very center, see that huge equestrian statue? That’s Edward, the Black Prince, famously cast in Belgium because no British foundry was big enough! It took seven years and its journey was epic: shipped to Hull, floated up the River Aire on a barge, and finally unveiled to roaring crowds in 1903. Here’s a secret: Edward never actually set foot in Leeds. Don’t ask why he’s here; it was all the mayor’s idea, and it certainly made for some lively headlines.
Look around at the other statues-James Watt, the engineer who helped spark the Industrial Revolution (though he never got around to mailing a postcard from Leeds either). Then there’s John Harrison, a real local hero who built schools and churches, and Dr. Hook, the vicar who rebuilt Leeds Minster and put up thirty schools. Finally, Joseph Priestley-chemist, theologian, and the man who played with gases from a local brewery to make scientific history while preaching at Mill Hill Chapel, which you can spot nearby.
But just when you thought you’d seen it all, check out the ring of bronze nymphs! Yes, those are larger-than-life nude ladies holding lamps-rather shocking for 1899. Some locals thought the statues might make their grandmothers blush! They were moved a dozen times and almost chucked away in the 1990s, but the townsfolk fought to keep them circling the prince in their own unique formation.
The square itself is encircled by architectural stars: the classical General Post Office with its clock tower chiming over the city, the grand Queens Hotel peering down from the south, the elegant Mill Hill Chapel to your left, and the modern face of No. 1 City Square to the north. If you look southwest, you’ll see the old Majestic Cinema and Ballroom, with that warm, terracotta glow. The Park Plaza Hotel nearby was once a stark concrete block, but has had quite the makeover! Don’t forget the Yorkshire Bank building, topped with a shiny green copper dome-very eye-catching.
And here’s a hidden adventure: City Square is actually the very start of the White Rose Way-a 104-mile trail all the way to Scarborough. So if the city buzz ever tires you out, you could always trade the bronze prince for the North Sea breeze!
So, whether you’re here to snap a selfie with the Black Prince, ponder why there are so many statues of men who’d never visited Leeds, or just rest your feet, remember: City Square is more than just a meeting point-it’s where Leeds puts its heart on show, celebrating its past, present, and a future full of stories yet to be written.
