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Stop 4 of 13

St Magnus Cathedral

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Right in front of you, look for a solid stone building with a round tower rising up near the corner - a small castle-like ruin perched beside the road, just across from the white cottages.

Now, take a moment to picture the scene here nearly 900 years ago. The Bishop’s Palace was once the grand home of William the Old - Orkney’s very first bishop, whose job title sounded almost as mysterious as his house! When this palace was fresh, it stood proud beside St Magnus Cathedral, towering above the town like a royal fortress. Walk a little closer and you can almost feel the chill of ancient stone under your hand, and hear the soft echo of footsteps on old flagstones.

Now, imagine a cold, stormy night in 1263. Inside these very walls, King Haakon IV of Norway - the last Viking king to ever rule these islands - spent his final days. Outside, the winds whipped against those thick walls, and the world changed forever as Norse rule slipped away. But don’t worry, the ghosts of the Vikings are friendly these days - sometimes they just want to know how to use a microwave!

After King Haakon’s passing, the palace fell into sorrowful ruin for a time, stones crumbling and windows blowing through with Orkney winds. Yet, history never left the Bishop’s Palace alone for long. There were daring attempts to seize it, like in 1526, when William, Lord Sinclair got his hands on it, only to be ordered by the king to give it right back - maybe he just fancied a better view than his own house. In 1540, Scottish troops stormed through these halls, boots thumping as they were garrisoned during King James V’s visit.

But the real fireworks came in 1557. Ships from England arrived, with fleets commanded by William Woodhouse and John Clere, their sails snapping in the wind. Troops burst onto the scene, clashing within sight of the cathedral, as the Bishop’s Palace became the prize in a desperate struggle. In a dramatic twist, the English were thrown back, and many, including their commander Clere, drowned trying to escape to their ships - perhaps learning the hard way that Orkney waters prefer locals!

As centuries passed, the palace changed hands with every twist of fortune: from bishops to earls, through sieges, betrayals, and debts. Eventually, nature and time won out, leaving the stone ruins you see today: haunted by tales and watched over by the round “Moosie Toor” - the tower built by Bishop Robert Reid, who also helped found Edinburgh University. These days, it might not have a bishop, but it still has stories to spare. If only these walls could talk, they'd probably have a punchline ready, too!

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