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Stop 8 of 22

Royal Northern Infirmary

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Look to your right for a long, pale stone hospital building with a tidy, classical face and rows of tall windows, sitting back a touch from the road like it’s keeping its composure.

This was the Royal Northern Infirmary, and for Inverness it was once the place you came when life got scary and urgent. It began in 1799 and opened in 1804, paid for by public subscriptions-locals chipping in because a hospital wasn’t a “nice to have,” it was survival. One supporter, John Ross, had made his fortune far away in Berbice (in what was then British Guiana, now Guyana), and there’s a complicated shadow to that money: wealth drawn from colonized plantations worked by indentured laborers. The building itself, designed by John Smith of Banff, arrived in crisp neoclassical style; later came the grand three-storey frontage in 1865, then an operating theatre pushing out front in 1898-practical, blunt, lifesaving. That same year a chapel was added in memory of Lord Tweedmouth, and by 1899 the nurses had their own home. It joined the National Health Service in 1948, and after 1999 the main building became a university headquarters-then, in 2023, it was put up for sale.

When you’re ready, Eden Court Theatre is a 6-minute walk heading east toward Riverside Gardens.

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