To spot the Exeter Synagogue, take a good look around Synagogue Place, just off Mary Arches Street. This building doesn’t grab your attention with big windows or grand signs. Instead, it's quite humble and tucked away, almost as if it’s playing a game of hide-and-seek with the city. The outside is discreet and windowless-look for its simple, classic brickwork just set back from the street, away from any crowds. If you find yourself wondering if you’re in the right place, you probably are! That’s the charm: it hides in plain sight, invisible on purpose since the 1700s.
Imagine stepping into the past, back to the 1760s, when the sound of footsteps on cobblestone echoed through narrow Exeter alleys. Right in front of you stands Exeter Synagogue: the third oldest synagogue in all of the United Kingdom. Picture the inside: a warm wooden space, light flickering as if by candle, with a grand, marble-like Torah ark at the front (though, here’s a secret-it’s actually carved wood pretending to be marble, a classic bit of 18th-century trickery).
This synagogue has stood through everything. It started as a place for Dutch-Jewish traders, then took in families from Germany as the centuries rolled on. Its walls have heard prayers sung for kings, for peace, and even for missing loved ones during the chaos of war. Back in the day, the community faced heartbreak and drama-one scandal even involved a teacher, a nephew, and a shocking conversion to Christianity! It was the talk of the town, and, honestly, Exeter’s episode of “Family Feud” never got this juicy.
Now, imagine 1764, the day of the big consecration. Abraham Ezekiel and Kitty Jacobs made sure the Torah was carried seven times around the bimah, the air full of tradition and excitement. The story of Exeter's Jews is one of resilience; they kept coming back, no matter what happened. The synagogue survived bombings in World War II, neglect, and even, recently, a shocking arson attack. But here it is-steadfast and proud.
Today, the synagogue still welcomes people from every corner of Devon and beyond, all keeping old traditions alive in this cozy, hidden place. So, as you stand outside, remember: if these quiet walls could talk, they’d have more stories than the city library. And if you sometimes wish you could stay hidden from the world, just like this synagogue, you’re certainly in good company here.
