Just ahead of you, you’ll spot the Devon County War Memorial standing proudly on the Cathedral Green. If you look past the grassy area, slightly west of the towering Exeter Cathedral, you’ll see a tall, pale grey stone cross rising up behind a dark metal fence. There’s no mistaking it-its height and simple shape set it apart from everything else. The cross is smooth and solid, carved from a single block of Dartmoor granite, so keep your eyes peeled for that sleek, strong silhouette. The plinth and three broad steps beneath the cross give it a grand stage, almost like nature lifting it up for everyone to see.
Now, as you stand in front of the memorial, imagine a scene just after the First World War. The people of Devon were trying to figure out how best to remember those who never came home. At first, they thought about adding a beautiful cloister to the cathedral, or maybe a grand new hospital wing-but money was tight, and ideas were plenty. It was a time of debate, hope, and even a few grumbles-some argued that every penny should care for living veterans instead, not carved stone!
Stepping in to end the squabble was Sir Edwin Lutyens, one of the most creative architects England had to offer. Lutyens didn’t want fancy frills-he went for strength and simplicity, designing this bold granite cross. He chose Haytor granite from Dartmoor, making it as sturdy as the hills themselves. Just picture giant chunks of stone being heaved out of the earth, rumbled along country roads, and chiselled into this monument right in front of you.
On 16 May 1921, the Prince of Wales himself came here to unveil the memorial. The crowd was hushed, the atmosphere heavy with pride and loss.
Lutyens became famous for memorials like this all across Britain-he even designed The Cenotaph in London, where the nation still gathers to remember. But here in Exeter, somehow, the committees of city and county never coordinated, so the city’s memorial ended up elsewhere in Northernhay Gardens. It turns out even in matters of remembrance, people can be just as stubborn as ever!
This cross is now a protected Grade II* listed building, part of a whole “national collection” of Lutyens’ works. Just think of how many stories and silent moments this spot has seen, and imagine the footsteps of families who’ve come to lay wreaths at its base-sometimes with heavy hearts, sometimes with quiet gratitude, and always with respect. You’re standing in the same spot as crowds a century ago-a living part of Exeter’s long memory.
