Look for a grand, red-brick building with ornate chimneys, tall windows, and a line of stone arches on the ground floor-just past the leafy trees and lush green lawns dotted with umbrellas and benches.
As you stand in front of Sidney Sussex College, imagine the steady clip-clop of horse-drawn carts rattling by, carrying bricks for its construction back in 1596. This picturesque college, lovingly known as “Sidney” by locals, was nearly lost to history before it even began-the will of Lady Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex, launched it into existence with a generous £5,000 and some silverware, all dedicated to her dream of nurturing clever minds at Cambridge. But don’t be fooled by these peaceful gardens; the roots beneath your feet once hid a very different world. Three centuries before this college stood, Franciscan friars prayed, studied, and strolled right where you are now. When excavations took place in the 1950s, all manner of hidden treasures-fragments of shattered stained glass and a giant Saxon jar-returned to the light along with some rather surprised skeletons. Talk about a surprise move to student housing!
The original red-brick buildings were designed in a memorable E-shape, which-rumor has it-stood for “Elizabeth,” though no one seems too sure. But trends change: in the 19th century, the college found that red brick was no longer fashionable. Rather than going out of style, Sidney wrapped herself in a layer of cement and raised her roof a bit, just to keep up appearances. Never underestimate the lengths an old college will go to stay in vogue.
Picture the early years: imagine Oliver Cromwell, future Lord Protector of England, shuffling across the courtyard in the chilly dawn, his collar buttoned tight against the Cambridge mist. Cromwell arrived here in 1616 and shared his chamber with just one roommate-a real luxury for the time. Some students had to squeeze in with three or more, and with only 35 rooms, you’d better hope your “chamber-fellow” didn’t snore! Beneath the Hall Court’s vaulted cellars-where the college wine collection now ages-lie the shadows of medieval Cambridge. Sometimes, at night, the wind whips through these old stones and you’d almost believe you could hear whispers from centuries ago.
Jumping forward, in the 1890s, Cloister Court went up with Gothic flair, all pointed arches and ornate stonework, balancing old-world gravitas with a dash of Victorian ambition. Sidney’s chapel, with its carved wood interior, harpsichord, and a Steinway grand, welcomes everyone, regardless of belief. And in case you’re searching for a proper mystery, there’s a secret here: Oliver Cromwell’s head is buried somewhere near the antechapel. There’s even a tablet marking the spot, but no one knows the exact site-Cambridge’s own spooky secret.
Sidney might be small, with about 355 undergraduates and 275 postgrads, but it’s buzzing with life. The students’ union runs everything from wild May Balls (complete with punting in the garden!) to running the lively college bar, and sports fans are kept busy too. The rowing club, which hit the river in 1837, has claimed its share of victories (and sinking boats). Cricket lovers swing for glory every year in the classic ‘Cuppers’ match.
Sidney’s choral tradition is alive as ever, with the choir’s golden harmonies floating out on Friday and Sunday evenings, as well as Vespers in Latin on Wednesdays. The music society hosts concerts throughout the year, keeping the college halls warm no matter the weather.
And finally, keep an eye out for quiz buffs-Sidney Sussex has twice lifted the University Challenge trophy, even pulling off a comeback in the 2002 “Reunited” series, decades after their original victory. Among riches, secrets, and some world-changing alumni, this cozy college just might be Cambridge’s best-kept treasure. Now go on-peek into those windows and imagine the stories still unfolding behind the glass. If those old bricks could talk, would they sing Sidney’s own college song, boasting it's the best in town? I’d bet my last plate they would!
To expand your understanding of the buildings and grounds, choir or the student life, feel free to engage with me in the chat section below.
