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Stop 3 of 11

The Angel Hotel, Abergavenny

headphones 03:45

Just ahead of you, the Angel Hotel’s pale grey Georgian façade stretches along the corner where Cross Street meets Lower Castle Street-look for a row of flagpoles, big sash windows, and the old “THE ANGEL” sign perched elegantly above the entrance.

Now, let me take you back in time, right here on this bustling corner, where muddy carriages once clattered over cobblestones and new arrivals, red-faced from the wind, ducked under the swinging sign of the Angel Hotel, hoping for a strong fire and a spot of decent ale. You see, this grand building has played generous host to all sorts since before 1736, when records first tell us of William Dunwoody passing it along to his son. It may not have WiFi back then, but it was all the rage for travelers-a coaching inn, where carriages rolled in from all across Wales and England. If you listen closely, you might just imagine the clip-clop of hooves and a shouted greeting as the Sovereign Light Coach rolled in from Hereford, stopping for the night at the very heart of Abergavenny.

The Angel’s story isn’t just cozy fires and soft beds-oh no! During the 1830s, the innyard bustling, the Mountaineer coach thundered down from Merthyr Tydfil, past swirling rain and sheep, all passengers counting the miles to the warmth of this corner inn. In those days, a carriageway ran right through the centre entrance, so you might very well have walked through fresh mud where today you see elegant doors.

But don’t go thinking it was all peace and quiet-here’s a twist worthy of a soap opera. In 1839, the landlord, Charles Barrett, found himself in legal hot water for failing to give enough straw to two very tired horses of the 12th Royal Lancers. That’s right! Under the Mutiny Act, he was dragged off to court-proving that even back then, people could get into trouble for not recycling... well, straw, at least.

Ownership of the Angel passed from one proud landlord to the next: Thomas Morgan and then his son Vaughn Morgan, who clung to this spot through thick and thin-and, eventually, the 8th Duke of Beaufort himself sold the land on which you’re now standing. In 1857, a Scotsman named Mr. Mason took over-one wonders if the whisky improved? But this was always a place to see and be seen, hosting the first ever Monmouthshire Polo Club dinner in 1869. I’ll bet the stories were even better than the pudding.

The Angel became a Grade II-listed building in 1952, protecting its historic bones for future generations-even as renovations rolled through in the 1980s, mixing old-world archways and dado paneling with plush new carpets and the glint of designer bathrooms. Yet swing through the main entrance today, and you’ll still find the sweeping staircase, no doubt the scene of many a dramatic entrance and maybe the odd hungover descent.

Today, under the Griffiths family, the hotel welcomes travelers with stylish rooms, top-class dining from chef Wesley Gregarious Lynford Hammond, and award-winning teas-one of only nine places outside London honored for its afternoon tea! In 2016, the Angel was voted AA Hotel of the Year for Wales, and its calm, creamy bedrooms have wowed even the pickiest critics.

So, whether you imagine yourself as a Victorian traveler, a polo club guest, or simply someone with an appetite for a spot of Welsh hospitality, the Angel Hotel stands ready to invite you in, just like it has for nearly three centuries. And who knows? Maybe someday your story will be part of the Angel’s legend, too.

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