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Stop 9 of 11

Church of Our Lady and St Michael, Abergavenny

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Right in front of you, you’ll see a grand church built from dark stone, with an enormous pointed window at its centre and a striking statue of Jesus on the cross to the right, so just follow the road until you spot the large Gothic windows and the rugged stonework set back from the street.

Now, let’s step back in time and imagine what this place was like in the mid-1800s. Abergavenny was clinging fiercely to its Catholic roots-even when it wasn’t exactly fashionable, or, let’s be honest, even safe. After the Reformation, when Catholic churches had all but vanished, hidden worship and secret gatherings kept the faith alive here. The very first Catholic church after all that drama was a little one on Frogmore Street, but soon the town needed something bigger, bolder-and a bit less drafty!

Enter John Baker Gabb, a local solicitor with pockets deep enough to build something lasting. He teamed up with Benjamin Bucknall, a young, energetic architect only 25 years old at the time. Just picture Bucknall dashing across Gloucestershire, chattering with famous architects, dreaming up something as grand as Notre-Dame, but trying to keep his wig from blowing off in the Welsh wind! Influenced by the great Augustus Pugin and the stylish Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, Bucknall chose a glorious Decorated Gothic style, with all those dramatic stone arches, tall windows, and church towers-except, whoops, the towering spire was always a “maybe next time” plan. Spoiler: it never got built.

The walls you see today are made from Old Red Sandstone and Bath Stone, sturdy enough to last centuries. Step inside (if you get the chance) and the whole place feels perfectly Victorian, untouched since Bucknall’s day. The furniture, the decorations-even the collection of priestly clothing, some medieval, some a bit more modern, are still here, as if waiting for the next chapter in the story.

Bold, beautiful, and slightly mysterious, this church stands today thanks to a little luck, a lot of faith, and maybe just a hint of Victorian drama!

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