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Stop 14 of 16

Stortorget

Stortorget
Stortorget
StortorgetPhoto: Øyvind Holmstad, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.

Welcome to Stortorget, an open cobblestone plaza anchored on the left by a tiered, carved stone well and framed by tall, vividly colored townhouses, including a striking red building with a stepped roofline.

It is hard to imagine a more peaceful European scene. But this square, the oldest in Stockholm, has a way of hiding its scars. That carved stone well you see was designed by Erik Palmstedt in the late eighteenth century. We saw his elegant work earlier on the Hereditary Prince's Palace. For centuries, people have gathered at this monument to draw water and share gossip, an entirely ordinary act of recreation right on top of a site of unimaginable trauma.

Because in November of 1520, this exact spot was the stage for the Stockholm Bloodbath. The Danish King Christian the Second wanted to permanently crush his political rivals. Despite promising an amnesty, he locked down the city and accused his enemies of blasphemy, a severe crime against the church. Over three days, his executioners systematically beheaded and hanged some ninety people right where you are standing. It is said that a heavy downpour of rain mixed with the victims' blood, turning the gutters into red rivers that flowed down into the narrow streets of the old town.

The memory of that massacre still haunts the architecture. Take a look at your phone for a photo of the red building with the stepped roofline, known as the Schantzska huset. Local legend insists there are exactly ninety-four white stones set around its windows, placed there to memorialize the victims of the Bloodbath. The myth even warns that if a stone is ever removed, the ghost of that victim will rise to haunt the square. Historians will dryly point out the house was built long before the massacre, but the fact that the legend persists tells you everything about the psychological shadow left by the king's ruthless hunger for power.

The striking Schantzska huset at Number 18-20, identifiable by its stepped gable and the 82 white stones, which local myth says represent the victims of the Stockholm Bloodbath.
The striking Schantzska huset at Number 18-20, identifiable by its stepped gable and the 82 white stones, which local myth says represent the victims of the Stockholm Bloodbath.Photo: Mastad, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped & resized.

You can see another piece of this morbid folklore if you look at the second image on your screen, showing a cannonball lodged in the corner wall of Number Seven. The story goes it was fired at King Christian during the siege. The reality? It was almost certainly shoved into the masonry by an early builder with a flair for dramatic decoration.

And that is the real story of Stortorget. It is a constant tug of war between absolute rulers trying to impose their will through violence, and the brilliant citizens who actually built the city. This square was home to people like Carl Wilhelm Scheele, the master chemist who discovered oxygen, and the master stonemasons who carved these intricate portals. They lived here, worked here, and reclaimed the space from the tyrants.

Look closely at that well designed by Palmstedt. It stands quiet now, but imagine the chaos and history that have unfolded on these very cobblestones beneath your feet. Now, let us head to our final stop, Tyska kyrkan, just a minute walk away, to explore how the people of this city found a sense of spiritual resilience in the aftermath of it all.

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