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Stop 3 of 22

Farmed palace

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Farmed palace

Directly in front of you stands a grand, pale stone building shaped like a strong letter “H,” with tall windows, classical columns, and an elegant gated entrance-just look for the two projecting wings that frame a small inner courtyard.

Imagine it’s the 1660s and you’re standing in a city where the air still carries the faint scent of burnt timber from a devastating fire decades earlier. The north side of Riddarhustorget was just beginning to rise from the ashes, with grand, new palaces planned to give Stockholm a touch of Parisian charm. Right here, Gustaf Bonde, the kingdom’s powerful treasurer, dreamed up a residence that would outshine its neighbors. To make it real, he hired the best: Nicodemus Tessin the Elder and Jean De la Vallée, the same architects who shaped royal Stockholm. Construction rumbled and clanged from 1662 to 1673, and you can almost hear workers hoisting stone and hammering scaffolding in place.

Picture the original palace-a dazzling baroque mansion with a sky-high copper roof, its corners wearing elegant domed pavilions that glittered in the sunshine. The “H”-shaped floor plan gave way to grand entrance courtyards in the south and a lush little baroque garden tucked away to the north, so guests arriving by coach would pass under archways and along garden paths blooming with colorful flowers.

But fate wasn’t always kind. In 1710, fire struck, and flames devoured the magnificent roof-imagine the choking air and crash of burning timbers. But the palace survived, its northern domes somehow spared, and the people of Stockholm pressed on to give it new purpose. Gustaf Bonde’s family fortunes weakened, and the palace was eventually rented, then sold. At different times, the elegant halls sheltered the noble Svea Court of Appeal and the Royal Library, both in exile from other lost homes.

Despite money troubles, the Bonde family somehow managed to build another, smaller house right next door-a feat that even their neighbors thought unlikely! No one really knows if the simple stone house that appeared in the 1660s was designed by a famous architect or a talented craftsman, but it matched the grand palace’s bold pilasters and domed roof, echoing the Baroque splendor.

By 1731, everything changed: the city of Stockholm bought the property, and for almost 200 years this palace was the bustling city courthouse. Imagine tense trials echoing in grand chambers, and city life swirling just outside. A fierce fire swept through yet again in 1753, and the palace’s look was transformed into the one you see today, reshaped by the city architect Johan Eberhard Carlberg. Much of the original roof was lost, but the cellars with their deep brick vaults, certain grand doors, and richly decorated ceilings in the entrance hall, still hold echoes of the mansion’s earliest days. Step around to the north if you can, and try to spot the last traces of the baroque garden, and imagine secret conversations among hedges.

In 1915, after centuries of drama, the courthouse work moved elsewhere. The building drifted into quieter years, even sheltering the Stockholm Chamber of Commerce for a spell. Then in the 1940s, the state took over and gave the palace a new role-as the home of Sweden’s Supreme Court. The echoes of the past still linger amid carefully crafted furniture made especially for these noble courts, with artwork on loan from the National Museum and treasured pieces from the Royal Household.

Today, as you listen to the hush and movement of the city around you, you’re standing where fires roared, nobles plotted, and justice was debated-each stone here telling the story of a city remade, year after year, in hope and resilience.

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