To spot the Plaza del Fontán, look ahead for a charming rectangular square surrounded by colorful, low-rise buildings dotted with iron balconies and flower boxes, and sheltered arcades running around the ground floor, with lively market stalls and people gathered beneath the open sky.
Welcome to the heart of Oviedo’s old town, the Plaza del Fontán, a place that’s worn many hats through the centuries-and looked good in all of them, if you ask the locals! Imagine you’re not just stepping onto cobblestones but walking above what was once a wild, gleaming lagoon fed by bubbling springs. Long ago, Oviedo was much smaller, and this spot, just outside the early city boundaries, was a favorite of noble families looking to relax-and, perhaps, sneak away from their day jobs, not that nobles ever admit to working.
Back in those days, you’d have seen more geese and cows than café tables. Country folk from the outskirts trundled in with baskets of eggs, cheese, and garden produce, eager to sell their wares, while blacksmiths hammered tools and basket-weavers shaped willow into baskets, filling the air with a chorus of clattering and market shouts.
Of course, nothing ruins a picnic for everyone-nobles and chickens included-like a stinky, stagnant lake. By the early 1500s, this beautiful lagoon was more “bring your nose plugs” than “romantic getaway.” So, in 1523, the city folks got serious: they drained the lake, scrubbed things up, and replaced it in 1559 with a brand-new washing area and a sparkling new fountain. And that’s where its name comes from-Fontán-springing from “fuente,” the Spanish word for fountain!
But the Fontán didn’t stop changing. In 1576, the widow Magdalena de Ulloa, looking for a meaningful project, decided to build a Jesuit college right where you’re now standing. The college was ready by 1587, but only its church, San Isidoro, still stands today. After construction, they had a bunch of leftover building materials, and being thrifty, they used them to shape this very plaza.
During the 1600s, the square shook things up again, becoming home to a real “corral de comedias”-an outdoor theater! This was the place for laughter, drama, and the odd distracted chicken wandering across the stage. As the years passed, the plaza’s shops expanded, and what were once storage rooms above became homes. Perhaps upstairs, you would have heard the sounds of families, children’s laughter, and-you guessed it-the odd dramatic row between neighbors.
But the most laughable part? That would be the famous fountain installed in 1657. Locals called it “el cañu del Fontán,” a spout so close to the ground that anyone wanting a drink had to bend double, no matter how proud they were. It was such a spectacle that a humorist from Madrid, Luis de Tapia, wrote playful verses about how the fountain had the unexpected power to knock the pride out of even the snobbiest noble. Imagine a whole city with a built-in antidote to vanity, one awkward sip at a time!
Over time, the plaza was reshaped and reimagined-especially in 1792, when the city tried to make it perfectly rectangular with rows of elegant shops and apartments all hugging beneath arcades. Of course, in the grand tradition of well-laid plans, the project didn’t go exactly as intended, and the different building heights give the square its own quirky, unique character. Still, even as the area grew and changed, the original spirit of Fontán-for friendship, exchange, and a bit of humble fun-remained untouched.
Now, fast-forward to the late twentieth century. Time and the weather wore at the plaza until, by the 1990s, it was on the verge of fading away forever-except for the little corner where the legendary Casa Ramón hid out untouched. In 1997, the square was lovingly rebuilt and restored, polished up, and brought back to life with its cheerful arcades, playful market scenes, and the laughter of those who gather-just like today.
Take a deep breath and imagine the clamor of old-time market days, the echo of a distant actor’s speech, the giggles at that cheeky, low-down fountain, and the flutter of pride tamed by a single, awkward sip of water. The Plaza del Fontán is living proof that even the humblest places can blossom into the most beloved hearts of a city. Now, go ahead-take a lap, look for the covered market next door, or see if you can spot where the plaza’s past peeks through its colorful present. And remember: here at Fontán, even the cobblestones have stories to tell!
