Right in front of you, you’ll spot a charming medieval square surrounded by majestic old stone buildings, towers, and a round patch of flowers in the center-just look for the bronze statue standing proudly among the historic facades.
Welcome to Plaza de la Villa! Imagine yourself standing in the heart of old Madrid, where three narrow streets-Codo, Cordón, and Madrid-draw together like threads from the Middle Ages. The air almost carries the whisper of centuries, where once townsfolk bustled about, and robed officials argued city matters under the shadow of imposing stones.
Let’s start with the Casa y Torre de los Lujanes, over on the eastern side. This chunky, fortress-like tower looks like it could have fended off invaders-or perhaps, nosey neighbors! It’s the oldest civic building in Madrid, built in the 15th century in a beautiful mix of Gothic and Mudéjar styles. The Luján family, wealthy merchants with a sharp eye for business, once called it home. If you crane your neck, you might spot their coats of arms above the doorway. But here’s a tale that spices things up: after the French king Francis I was captured in the Battle of Pavia, he ended up as an unwilling houseguest here. Imagine the royal grumbling-“Do you have WiFi?” “Could I get room service?” Actually, it was much grimmer, but you get the idea. Now the building hosts dignified debates as the home of the Royal Academy of Moral and Political Sciences.
Shift your gaze to the south, where the Casa de Cisneros stands proudly. At first it seems calm, but its walls could certainly tell of intrigue and scandal. Built in 1537 by the nephew of Spain’s mighty cardinal, this Renaissance palace has seen plotters and prisoners. Antonio Pérez, once secretary to Philip II, was locked up here, no doubt regretting his career choices. The building got a 20th-century facelift-Madrid’s city planners wanted to attach it to the council chambers next door, so now the Casa de Cisneros is practically joined at the hip with its neighbor, just like lifelong best friends who finish each other’s sentences. One former resident, the general Ramón Narváez, died right here after a lifetime of military drama. Politics seems to cling to these stones like ivy!
On the western edge stands the stately Casa de la Villa, with its dignified columns and baroque air of importance. It once belonged to a Marquess, until Madrid’s civic leaders bought it up and made it the seat of the City Council. Back in the day, council meetings were actually held out in the plaza’s open air-imagine today’s politicians sweating in the summer sun or fighting with flapping papers on a windy day! Construction of this building took a while-work began in 1645 and wrapped up nearly fifty years later in 1693. Over the years it’s been the backdrop for plenty of drama, including the arrest of Duke Osuna, hauled off on Holy Thursday by order of the king. From 1693 right up to 2007, this was Madrid’s city hall. If these windows could roll their eyes, they would at all the historic shenanigans they’ve seen.
And there in the center-don’t miss the proud figure of Admiral Álvaro de Bazán, set high on his pedestal. He’s stomping on a Turkish flag, a look of pure determination on his face, half dressed in armor and wielding a general’s baton. The city erected this bronze in 1891 to honor Spain’s sea hero. And because every city needs a bit of poetry, you’ll find a few lines by Lope de Vega celebrating Bazán’s exploits, tucked onto the back of the monument.
So linger here a moment amid the sleepy sunlight and the sound of distant footsteps. In Plaza de la Villa, every stone and statue has a wild, weird, or wondrous story to tell-though, frankly, the kings and councilmen probably argued just as much about pigeon droppings as they did about politics!
Ready to delve deeper into the house and tower of the lujanes, cisneros house or the villa house? Join me in the chat section for an enriching discussion.
