To spot the Church of Santiago, let your eyes search for a large, strong-looking building of brownish stone right in front of you. Its walls are made of a patchwork of brick and rough stones, with three levels rising like giant steps above the street. The big wooden door is framed by rows of arches, and there are two tiny round windows like watchful eyes on either side of the central wall. If you see something that reminds you of an ancient fortress, that’s your spot!
You’re now standing at the famous Church of Santiago, or as the locals call it, Iglesia de Santiago el Mayor. Picture yourself nearly 800 years ago, when this site was alive with builders hauling bricks, and the sounds of hammers and laughter echoed under the sun.
The story of this church goes back to the time of King Sancho II. Imagine him, a powerful figure with a grand vision, ordering that this sanctuary rise where older buildings once stood. Before these sturdy walls, there was even a mosque here, filled with the call of prayer, and even before that, a Visigothic building whose stones whispered tales from long ago.
Suddenly, Sancho II died, and everything stopped-the tools dropped, the plans were left half-finished. For years, the church sat lonely, wanting to come to life. But then, the Diosdado family swept in. Members of the Order of Santiago, they rolled up their sleeves and brought the work roaring back to life.
Look up at those arches-they’re pure Mudéjar style, which means Muslim artisans crafted them with the same skill they’d use in a mosque, but for Christian prayers. You’ll also spot hints of the Romanesque style. It’s a true architectural mash-up, Toledo-style!
And here’s a fun detail: the bell tower over there was actually built using parts of the old mosque’s minaret. So if you stand here quietly, you might just imagine the ancient echoes of both bells and calls to prayer mixing in the breeze.
By the way, what you’re seeing now is thanks in part to a major restoration job from the 1950s and 70s. Without it, this old church might have been just a pile of stones-now it’s ready for a selfie. Just don’t trip on the steps dreaming about knights and kings! Ready to head to our next stop?




