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Stop 3 of 17

Hakata Station Building

headphones 03:23

Take a good look around you. You’re now standing at the site that has, for more than sixty years, been the absolute heart of Hakata’s hustle and bustle: the Hakata Station Building. Try to picture what it must have felt like here in the early 1960s. The city was changing fast-steam trains were slowly giving way to the electric age, and Hakata was ready for an upgrade. The old, undersized Hakata Station, tucked away near present-day Gion Station, had finally run out of room for all the travelers, dreamers, and folks in search of late-night ramen.

So, what did the city leaders, business moguls, and councilmen of Fukuoka do? Well, they rolled up their sleeves and moved the whole darn station about 600 meters southeast, right here, in 1960. That’s almost the same as moving two Tokyo Towers lying end-to-end. To figure out what to do with this brand new building, a group of three powerful local organizations formed the “Hakata Public Station Establishment Preparation Committee.” (Try saying that three times fast!) Their goal: create not just a train station, but a gleaming commercial hub that would announce Hakata’s arrival as a modern city.

Within just a couple short years, their vision became a reality. The Hakata Station Building sprang up, a seven-story marvel with an underground floor, and its doors officially opened in December of 1963-just in time to catch the first waves of Japan’s economic miracle. At first, the star tenants were a local department store, Daiko, and a string of specialized shops. But Daiko must’ve had stage fright, because after just four months, it bowed out! Luckily, the department store Izutsuya from Kitakyushu swooped in for a grand Hakata debut and held the limelight here for the next forty years. Talk about staying power!

But wait-there’s more! The basement was quickly transformed into a lively underground dining street, now known as Hakata 1-Bangai, where the air was thick with the scent of ramen, curry, and perhaps a hint of train oil. The elevated tracks above grew their own maze of famous shops, which today make up the Mying Hakata Ekimae Shopping Street. Underground, don’t get lost! Hakata Station’s subterranean town opened in 1964, adding yet another layer to the station’s vibrant world.

Of course, everything changes, especially in Japan’s fast-moving cities. After nearly fifty years, the building was getting a little creaky-like your uncle’s knees after a marathon. When the shiny new Kyushu Shinkansen line zipped onto the scene in 2011, the entire area got its biggest facelift yet. JR Kyushu, fresh with big ideas, led a project to completely rebuild the station. The classic “Hakata Station Building” closed its doors for the last time on March 31, 2007, making way for the sleek JR Hakata City complex you see today.

But there’s still a secret hiding in plain sight: the original company, Hakata Station Building Co., is still alive and thriving, running the famous Mying shopping alley and the busy Hakata underground. It’s like a ghost from the Showa era-still managing the heartbeat under your feet. Quite a story, right? Now, ready for the next stop? Let’s keep moving, before someone mistakes us for lost luggage!

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