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Stop 8 of 15

Bertoliana Civic Library

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Right in front of you, you’ll spot the Bertoliana Civic Library-just look for the long, weathered building with tall arched windows and sturdy iron bars, along with a big sign above the main double doors that proudly reads “Biblioteca Civica Bertoliana.”

Now, take a moment and imagine the air tinged with the crisp, papery scent of old books and the gentle creak of wooden floors echoing through these walls. The story of the Bertoliana Library begins right here in Vicenza, back in 1696, when a local nobleman, Giovanni Maria Bertolo, was struck by a truly wild idea-he decided to give away his entire book collection, some 9,000 volumes, so that everyone in the city could explore the wonders of reading. Talk about a generous donation! But there was one rather quirky catch: all those precious tomes had to be kept in a place as splendid as the knowledge they contained. No dusty basements allowed.

By 1706, Bertolo’s private library had been settled into the grand halls of the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà, and two years later, the doors swung open for the city’s book lovers. The people of Vicenza honored their benefactor by naming the new institution after him: Bertoliana. Ironically, Bertolo himself didn’t live to see his dream realised, but his books didn’t gather any dust-they were catalogued, expanded, and cherished.

As the years passed, the Bertoliana gobbled up new books like a very hungry caterpillar-after the death of economist and senator Fedele Lampertico, the collection ballooned by another 20,000 titles! Suddenly, the shelves were so full, they needed a bigger home, and the choice fell upon the former Convent of San Giacomo, a place once humming with the quiet prayers of the Somaschi fathers. In 1910, after much hammering and the odd architectural debate, the Bertoliana reopened, ready to house hundreds of thousands of books, pamphlets, and historical treasures.

But the library’s life hasn’t been all quiet reading and polite shushing. During World War II, the rarest treasures were spirited away, hidden in secret nooks and crannies across villas and abbeys-like a literary spy mission! When things got dangerous after the armistice, the most valuable works were transferred to Monte Berico’s underground chambers and, for extra precaution, to Venice itself. Only in 1945 did they return home, safe and sound. In the aftermath of war, the library was renovated and reorganized over and over again, making space for even more books and for the curious minds of Vicenza.

Just imagine generations of librarians bustling around, some so devoted they wrote whole histories and catalogues about the library, arguing about how to store the books, or perhaps sneaking a peek at the city’s secrets. The Bertoliana isn’t just about printed words-it guards manuscripts, journals, family archives of Vicenza’s nobles, ancient hospital documents, even a massive photography collection with images reaching back to the 1800s, and enough maps to satisfy the most adventurous explorer.

And here’s a fun twist: once upon a time, no one was allowed to take a book outside these walls. Lending was strictly forbidden-you could read, sure, but not step outside. Can you imagine a modern library with that rule? Nowadays, things have loosened up a bit, and there are not just one but seven library branches dotting the city, from Villa Tacchi to Villaggio del Sole, each with its own specialty-from women’s history to comic books and everything in between.

Today, the Bertoliana’s main home inside Palazzo San Giacomo isn’t just a building; it’s a living memory of Vicenza, echoing with centuries of laughter, whispers, and shouts of discovery. It now shelters around 450,000 volumes-yes, you heard that right!-plus ancient manuscripts, periodicals from every era, and a thriving multimedia section. There’s even a room for people who just want to browse the daily newspapers, old and new.

So while the library’s stone façade may look a little severe on the outside, inside it’s a treasure chest-full of drama, heroics, narrow escapes, and stories waiting to be read. If only those library walls could talk… but lucky for you, you have me instead! So, are you ready for the next chapter on our Vicenza adventure?

Interested in a deeper dive into the patrimony, catalogs or the historical librarians? Join me in the chat section for an insightful conversation.

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