Right ahead, you can spot the Carignano Theatre by its grand, cream-colored four-story facade, lined with elegant rectangular windows, neoclassical pediments, and a central entrance marked with tall columns and a balcony above-just look towards the building with intricate stonework overlooking the lively pedestrian piazza.
Now, step closer and imagine you're drifting back in time-not to just any old stage, but the oldest theatre in Turin! The Carignano Theatre, or “Teatro dei Principi di Carignano,” has seen more drama, laughter, and perhaps a little backstage gossip than anywhere else in the city. Founded at the turn of the 18th century, it was originally a playground for the city's aristocrats; back then, it was less about the drama on the stage and more about the drama among the audience! The first parties here were held in a building called the Trincotto Rosso, which, believe it or not, was more known for raucous noble festivities and games than for refined performances.
By 1703, enter Prince Emanuele Filiberto Amedeo di Savoia-Carignano, who, after admiring his majestic palace across the square, decided it was only appropriate to have a theatre fit for royalty as well. Guided-probably with a regal flourish-by Guarino Guarini’s architectural genius, the theatre took on its distinctive look and feel, with the earliest performances staged for the royal court’s elite. You can almost hear the rustle of silk dresses and the whispered scandals floating under the gold balcony.
The real fun began in 1719, when the doors opened to the public. Imagine the excitement as locals streamed in for the premiere of “Il carceriere di se stesso,” starring the famous soprano Francesca Cuzzoni. By 1727, the theatre had grown even grander-thanks to the “Società dei Cavalieri,” who filled the stage with comedies, dances, and concerts, while the prestigious nearby Regio handled the highbrow operas. Don’t worry, though-everyone got their dose of melodrama one way or another.
Disaster struck in 1786. One chilly February evening, a fire blazed through, reducing everything to ash. Picture the heat, the crackle of flames, nobles in ornate masks dashing for the doors! Yet, like the most determined of stage characters, the Carignano rose again, rebuilt with gusto by architect Giovanni Battista Feroggio-six months and it was back to dazzling the city, fresher and finer than ever.
Over the years, Carignano became the beating heart of Turin’s social life, hosting concerts, debates, and some of the world’s most famous performers-ever heard of Paganini, Dario Fo, or Vittorio Gassman? Paganini even made theatre history here, scandalizing the king by refusing to repeat his performance after a grueling concert, uttering his legendary line: “Paganini does not repeat!” Turin was a city of two kings… and, at least on this square, of two theatres fit for kings.
If these walls could talk, boy, would they have stories! Hidden deep beneath your feet is the old brewery, where-back in the day-Carlo Alberto himself enjoyed a cold one. The building has survived more than one shakeup, including World War II. Bombs rained from the sky-most of Turin’s other theatres were destroyed-but somehow, Carignano escaped major harm, thanks to the sharp action of staff and a bit of luck.
Walk inside and imagine the plush red velvet seats, the carved and gilded balconies, and the grand chandelier sparkling overhead. Gaze up to the painted ceiling by Francesco Gonin-the “Triumph of Bacchus” parading above you. Even the ghosts must be well entertained! The theatre has had its fair share of mysteries too-Dario Argento filmed terrifying scenes here for his movies, and you can almost sense the suspense lingering in the corridors.
In the last century, Carignano was swept into the modern age, renewed and cared for, always full of life. Every big name you can think of has stood on this stage: actors from Sarah Bernhardt to Dario Fo, directors like Luca Ronconi, and artists in every genre. With every renovation, the theatre’s spirit grows richer. Sit quietly for a second-can you almost hear the swell of applause, the rumble of laughter, or the hush before the curtain rises?
After centuries of turmoil, restoration, and incredible performances, the Carignano Theatre is still, quite simply, where Turin comes to cheer, gasp, and be amazed. Now, doesn’t that deserve a standing ovation?
