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Stop 9 of 11

Autonomous Maritime Command West

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To spot the Autonomous Maritime Command West, look straight ahead for a low, light-colored building behind elegant metal gates, flanked by two massive black anchors right in front.

Alright, sailor, take a deep breath and imagine salty sea air drifting off the harbor. Before you stands the legendary Autonomous Maritime Command West, a mighty stronghold built right before World War II-between 1937 and 1939-when the city was buzzing with military plans and the Italian Royal Navy had big dreams for this port. Don’t be fooled by its clean, geometric lines; this is one of Italy’s best examples of rationalist architecture, where every angle and material is meant to impress. Notice that central facade of creamy travertine, like marble but warmer-it’s like the building’s giving you a polite yet firm salute-while the brick sides slope down almost as if they were bowing to passing ships. Although you and I can’t go inside (security, you know-apparently they didn’t set up a VIP guestbook for wandering tour guides!), the best views are right here, or from the water, where it has watched over the port for generations. Rumor has it, the walls here have heard everything from top-secret orders to the echo of jokes told by nervous young sailors. So, strike a strong pose, channel your inner admiral, and imagine standing guard at one of Cagliari’s most secretive addresses. Anchors away-onward to our next stop!

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