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Villa Orotava

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The original building was just a humble one-story house with an arched cellar, built in 1871 on what was then a leafy garden plot. It played a game of musical chairs with its owners, passing from Philadelphia’s Joseph de Nesle to Miss Hallan of Tiverton, and soon to Heinrich Freyer. But it was Herr Denkendorf, who scooped up this charming property in 1889, who transformed it into the stately villa you see today, thanks to architect H. Hirsch. In his honor, it was long known as Villa Denkendorf. Now, how it became Villa Orotava-possibly inspired by a holiday resort on sunny Tenerife-remains one of Handschuhsheim’s little mysteries. Maybe it just wanted to sound more exotic at parties.

Denkendorf loved the villa, but he didn’t settle in for too long. By the late 19th century, he was renting it to guests, and in the sizzling Heidelberg summer of 1902, the place turned into a musical powerhouse. Imagine the legendary Russian composer Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov arriving here with his family. While his son Andrei buried himself in lessons with the famous philosopher Kuno Fischer at the university, Rimsky-Korsakov himself sat at a rented piano, working feverishly on scenes for his opera “Pan Wojewode.” And who should join the household but a young, wide-eyed Igor Stravinsky! Picture Stravinsky, nervously clutching his musical notebooks, getting private double lessons on orchestration from the master himself-right here, probably within earshot of where you’re standing. Stravinsky never forgot this family; he later wrote a funeral march for his dear mentor and, in 1908, wedding music for Rimsky-Korsakov’s daughter Nadeja.

After its musical glory days, the villa became a nunnery (complete with a little cloister and grotto), then a cozy home again, bouncing from the hands of coal merchants to the Brandel and Leitz families. During renovations in the 1990s, workers unearthed a 20-meter-deep well under the terrace-Handschuhsheim’s last surviving self-supply water well from back when neighbors didn’t rely on city pipes but their own ingenuity. So, next time your tap water tastes good, send a polite nod to Villa Orotava’s old well. This house has always had a talent for keeping secrets-musical, mysterious, and practical.

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