Picture yourself as a courtier in 1689 on a sunny afternoon, following the King’s instructions: walk into the center, gaze up at the arcades, admire the marble and bas-reliefs, and take a leisurely spin around. Louis XIV wanted everyone to “consider the columns, arches, bas-reliefs, and basins.” He didn’t mention anything about counting the columns, but don’t worry - if you tried, you’d only find 32 now, since a couple had to be moved in 1704 to make way for new entrances. Versailles: always a work in progress.
The marble variety here could make even a pastry chef jealous: Languedoc red, blue turquin from Saint Béat, breccia violet from Serravezza, and the world-famous Carrara marble from Italy. Every surface seems to glitter with a different type. Mansart made sure his grove stood out in the garden, and it does - a sculpted stage of stone amid green, with the delicate splash of water not far away.
Notice the bas-reliefs on the arcades, brimming with frolicking children playing music and old-timey countryside games. The heads on the arches might give you a double-take: Pan, his wild curls flanked by the Bacchante and Syrinx. The designers loved contrast, so there’s a parade of divine faces peeping from every arch - fauns, satyrs, river gods, and a roll-call of nymphs. It’s a dramatic ensemble, and for once at Versailles, the women might just outnumber the men. Ancient mythology fans, this is your happy place.
Once upon a time, there were thirty-one great marble basins here, each intricately decorated. Today, you’ll see twenty-eight, standing proud on triangular bases, lavishly crowned with laurel leaves, ribbon-like curls, and shells. Imagine the water glistening under the sun, scattered from one gleaming bowl to the next. A couple of these basins wandered off - two to another grove, one all the way to the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris. So, even at Versailles, basin drama is real.
At the heart of the colonnade, you’ll spot a dramatic scene: Pluto abducting Proserpine, a statue by Girardon. Well, not quite the original - that’s kept safe at the Orangery, probably sipping orange juice. The current centerpiece is a remarkable mold, still brimming with drama, love, and a bit of divine melodrama.
The Colonnade Grove has braved centuries, with its marble delicately enduring weather and royal whims alike. If you see scaffolding on one column-pilaster pair today, it’s simply Versailles staying fabulous for another few centuries.
As you walk away, listen for the echoes of music and laughter from those mischievous children in marble
