As you look around, you’re surrounded by history that isn’t shy-it’s all out for you to see. This street has played more roles than an actor at a Shakespeare festival! Through the ages, it’s had a variety of names, from “Grande-Rue” to “rue Courvoiserie,” then, rather dramatically, “rue Massacre.” Don’t let that one scare you! It eventually circled back to Grande-Rue, until finally becoming Rue du Gros-Horloge, borrowing its name from the city’s beloved landmark watchtower and clock right nearby.
This street became a causeway for commerce and a parade for parades-always full of activity. And speaking of activity: in 1932, France’s very first Monoprix (then called Noma, which was short for “nouveau magasin”-meaning “new store”) opened its doors here. Revolutionary for its time, people flocked for the novelty of fixed prices. Decades later, in 1971, this street made French history again, becoming France’s very first pedestrianized street. Cars out, window shopping and strolls in! Now that’s progress you can walk on-no parking tickets required.
If you look up and around, you’ll spot some remarkable buildings. The timbered houses lining the street-look for the ones that bulge out over the pavement-are some of Rouen’s finest. At least three of these homes were already old news when Joan of Arc met her fate in 1431. There are addresses here with histories all their own: the wooden façade at number 13 crafted by architect A. Lequeux; number 72, birthplace of the painter Pierre Hodé; and, not to be left out, the offices once held by architect Émile Janet at number 42.
Notable artists have been inspired by these views, including Camille Pissarro, who immortalized this street with an engraving in 1885. Next time you pop into a shop for a baguette, remember-you could be walking in the footsteps of painters, architects, revolutionaries, and perhaps a few exasperated Roman soldiers who forgot where they parked their chariots. Now, onto the next marvel-we’re only getting warmed up!
