If you look straight ahead, you can’t miss it: a mighty bronze king sits on horseback, towering above you on a massive, bright stone pedestal right in the heart of the Promenade du Peyrou. The statue almost looks ready to gallop into the Montpellier sky-one front hoof raised, king’s arm stretched in a grand gesture, cape flying behind him. It’s open space all around and you’ll spot him perfectly against the blue horizon. Walk toward the cluster of trees framing the open square, and soon the horse and rider will fill your view, casting long shadows on the pale gravel.
Now, as you stand in front of this impressive sight, imagine the excitement when it was first unveiled. This is the Equestrian Statue of Louis XIV, put here in 1828. Believe it or not, this isn’t even the first statue of the Sun King in Montpellier-the original one was destroyed during the French Revolution (and I bet you didn’t think statues needed a body double!).
Picture the scene three hundred years ago: local leaders argue for ages over how to honor the king. Should the statue go in a grand square or out among the rolling fields? At last, they choose this very spot, thinking, “Why just rule over a city, when you could look out over the whole region?” Even the statue’s journey here was a comedy of errors. Sculpted in Paris and ready by 1692, it weighed so much, nobody could figure out how to move it! When they finally tried shipping it by boat, people in Bordeaux were so curious they crowded the vessel so much that-splash!-the statue toppled right into the water. It took months and some very soggy workers to drag King Louis back up.
But they did it, and on a crisp day in 1718, Louis XIV arrived in Montpellier, held high for all to see, and has been watching over the city ever since, bronze arm forever waving, horse eternally mid-stride. There’s even a Latin inscription at his feet, calling him Louis the Great, a dedication from the people of Occitania-just in case you needed a reminder that kings once loved a dramatic entrance. And according to Voltaire, even he would have been impressed. So as you stand here, take in the power and a good dose of royal drama-this statue’s seen centuries of sunshine, storms, and plenty of curious visitors, just like you.
Ready for one last adventure? Our next and final stop is a true green escape-let’s head toward the Jardin des plantes!
