Cotonou Audio Tour: Between Digital Heritage and Colonial Secrets

Imagine Cotonou, a bustling city, just a few decades ago. Here, two forces held the reins: the Police nationale and the Gendarmerie nationale. It was, a bit like in a TV series, the era when, as soon as a cat wanted to cross the street, people wondered: “Who will intervene? The police or the gendarmerie?!” Suspense! But in 2017, a major turning point: all these forces merged and became the Police républicaine, a single force to ensure peace and security. Since then, everyone here is on deck: they protect people, property, monitor borders, even forests and fishing! Yes, no outlaw fish under their noses! More than a team, it's a family. Police officers and gendarmes, supervised by the Ministère de l’Intérieur, work together. In case of trouble, they are the first to intervene, sometimes with a rigor… worthy of Benin's best mothers. And modernity, they know it! Since 1962, they have been working hand in hand with Interpol. If you hear about an international operation in Cotonou, it's not surprising. A fun little fact: in February 2025, a new man took the reins - Kokou Brice Allowanou. He is the conductor of this great symphony of security, succeeding Soumaïla Yaya (who, for his part, had to hang up his uniform… but shhh, stories of changing bosses are like police secrets, they're not told out loud!) Before heading back into the streets of Cotonou, take a look at the uniforms: each button, each emblem, tells a piece of the country's history… and if one of them salutes you, don't forget the famous “Bonjour chef!”, it works every time!

To spot Xwlacodji in front of you, look carefully at this white monument in the center of the small garden, surrounded by four black cannons pointing in different directions, nestled under the welcoming shade of a large tree. Welcome to Xwlacodji, one of the neighborhoods at the heart of Cotonou's history! Imagine yourself nearly two hundred years ago, in 1830: no cars, no honking, just the sound of waves caressing the land, and a handful of brave fishermen ready to challenge the Atlantic Ocean. Here, on these lands, the first colonists, a bit clumsy on the sand but determined, met the Pedah and the Popo - experts of the sea! The colonists, a bit like someone trying to get into a dugout canoe without falling in, needed them to tame the waves and build the famous wharf. The Pedah and the Popo, therefore, settled here, giving this territory the name Xwlacodji. Xwlacodji means “on the land of the Xwla or Pla people.” The neighborhood then developed, and its sounds became those of a bustling market, barefoot children running, fishermen bringing in their nets, and later, alas, some less joyful sounds… Indeed, by attracting so many people, Xwlacodji found itself a bit overwhelmed: a lively suburb, but also a hub for trafficking, security wasn't always a party! Do you know what? Even the army tried to demolish the neighborhood in 2012, but Xwlacodji, like a clever old fisherman, didn't give in! Sometimes, life here is a bit like trying to row against the current… And then, more recently in 2019, bulldozers passed through, razing a large part of the neighborhood. Sad, yes, but the memories remain, immense and vibrant. Now, look around you and imagine all this past, the sea, the cries of joy and sometimes anger… And smile: here, they say Xwlacodji's heart is stronger than a fishing net, even if torn, it still catches beautiful stories!

Just in front of you, the Ministère de l’Industrie et du Commerce stands in a massive, multi-story beige building, recognizable by its many aligned windows and the large white sign at the gate marked with an unmissable name; just look for the large square edifice on the main road, right next to the bustling Haie Vive roundabout. Welcome to the true beehive of Beninese commerce! When you stop here, imagine a whole ballet of civil servants, technicians, and advisors, each rushing through the corridors of this large block with its ochre facade. The air conditioners turning on and purring at each window are almost the soundtrack of Beninese efficiency in action! It is said here that no two days are alike at this ministry, because under its roof, all the secrets of the country's industry and trade are revealed. This institution, located on the airport road, even shares its building with the famous Ministry of Culture: suffice to say that here, they chat about fabrics, cocoa, and festivals during coffee breaks. But let's go back a few years, when this ministerial department gained prominence, tasked by the State with taking Benin to the next level: promoting factories, supervising traders, monitoring competition, and sending "Made in Benin" products to the four corners of the world. In short, it's the country's logistical brain - and believe me, things get heated in there! At the head of this hive is the minister: today Shadiya Alimatou Assouman, an iron fist in a velvet glove who, with her technical advisors as discreet as they are effective, orchestrates each mission. Around her: secret cells - well, almost secret - for public procurement control, a secretary who knows all the files, an inspector with a formidable nose for detecting the slightest weakness. And then, of course, the right-hand person for each strategic area. Open your ears wide and imagine four key departments where everyone is busy. First, the Direction du Développement industriel, chaired by Elie Santos, the boss of new factories and big ideas. He often dreams over cotton or pineapple statistics, concocting growth plans that make entrepreneurs tremble. He's nicknamed "Monsieur Révolution Industrielle" here, and no one really jokes with him - even if it's whispered that he almost transformed the entire ministry into a speciaaaal economic zone… one morning of great inspiration. Right next door, Marius Konssago Yargo oversees domestic trade. His mission? To ensure that rice, spices, and even the famous "wagassi" never run out in the markets. Every clash between a tomato vendor and a tax collector, every question of authorization, sooner or later passes through his office. It's said that he can name all the markets in Cotonou - and that when he sneezes, he triggers an emergency meeting on onion sales. The Direction de la Concurrence, chaired by Ms. Denise Degbedji Odoumbourou, acts a bit like the police of good deals: here, no room for cheating! Suspicion of label fraud or a pricing ambush? She's the one who shows up, armed with her commercial code and her alliances with consumer associations. A true "Sherlock Holmes of the grocery aisles"! Finally, the Direction du Commerce extérieur: here, Zéphiryn Pognon leads cross-border operations. He's the conductor of exports, the one who stamps files to send shea butter or cashews flying to Morocco, India, or China. His passion? Translating Beninese dreams into signatures on international contracts. But beware, all these people don't act alone! The ministry also relies on expert entities: the Agence de normalisation ensures quality, the famous Chambre de commerce arranges marriages between entrepreneurs, and the Structure de liaison OAPI manages intellectual property. A real puzzle of economic and commercial secret agents, where everyone knows that the slightest link can tip an entire sector. This ministry is a bit like the compass of modern Benin: it proposes laws to protect local producers, encourages consuming Beninese products, negotiates to attract capital… and dreams, above all, of a country where every product, whether woven or processed, proudly defends the national colors. Well, a hint of mystery to finish: some say that the best jokes about commerce in Cotonou circulate within its walls... but that will be for another visit! For a more complete understanding of the Direction du Développement industriel, the Direction du Commerce intérieur, or the Direction de la Concurrence, contact me in the chat section below.

In front of you, it's impossible to miss the facade with its vibrant red and white stripes: look up and spot the stripes that resemble a giant candy package! Welcome to the famous Cathédrale Notre Dame de Miséricorde, or simply the Cathédrale de Cotonou! Imagine, over a century ago, the city was just a vibrant port where market sounds floated in the warm air. Here, in 1883, it all began: missionaries from afar laid the first stone on a land of sand and hope, giving birth to the Préfecture Apostolique du Dahomey. But that was just the beginning of a story full of twists and turns! This place is not just a simple building: it's the beating heart of the Archidiocèse de Cotonou! Listen, you can almost hear the murmur of past faithful as the city grew around them. The cathedral's superb tower, to the rear-left, has witnessed storms, processions, and even some well-kept secrets (it's said a priest sometimes got lost there - but shhh, it's confidential!). And then, these red and white bands… It's as if they're trying to hold history so it doesn't escape! So look closely at every detail. You're not just standing in front of a church; you're contemplating a living page of old Cotonou, solid and colorful, ready to tell you many more stories… if you know how to listen.

To spot the Archidiocèse catholique romain de Cotonou, look just in front of you at the vibrant red and white stripes, like a giant striped candy package, crowned by a large white cross. Welcome to the Archidiocèse de Cotonou! Here, discretion is not the name of the game: with its red and white stripes that look a bit like a giant football jersey, it's impossible to pass by without a smile. Imagine, it's 1883, the first missionaries arrive in what was then called Dahomey. They decide to establish the very first apostolic prefecture, at the time, a small community full of hope facing the unknown. Little by little, the edifice grows! In 1901, it was given more importance, and the building was elevated to the status of an apostolic vicariate. But wait, it's not over! A twist in 1948: its name was changed, and it was called the Vicariat apostolique d’Ouidah, before finally becoming in 1955 the religious metropolis you see, the conductor of an entire ecclesiastical province. Imagine each archbishop, from the famous Bernardin Gantin, future cardinal, to Roger Houngbédji today, climbing the stairs of this church one by one, each adding their stone to the edifice, and perhaps a little humor too - it's said that laughter could sometimes be heard in the corridors! But it's not just a story of stones and crosses. In 1983, the SCDIH, the Service de la Charité pour le Développement Intégral de l’Homme, was created here, because here, solidarity is not an empty word - it's outstretched arms, open hearts, a bit like sharing a good family meal. Do you feel the history vibrating within these walls? If you listen closely, perhaps you'll hear the breath of all those who, yesterday as today, seek a little light between these vibrant stripes. Nothing beats it for recharging your spirit… or for reawakening your sense of direction in front of these red and white labyrinths!

In front of you is a modern, sleek storefront where large black letters « ASWORLDTECH » are placed on the ground, surrounded by connected glasses on display on white shelves; just look to your right, right after the turquoise scooter, to spot this place. Now, settle in, open your eyes wide… and listen to this almost magical story! Imagine: Cotonou, a lively night in the heart of a nightclub. Richard Odjrado, a young entrepreneur full of ideas, has his phone stolen. Bad luck! But instead of crying over his fate or suspecting all the DJs in the city, he decides it's time to change things. It was there, in that atmosphere full of light and sound, that the idea for As World Tech germinated: why not invent an anti-theft watch? Just a short time later, in June 2021, As World Tech was born, like a Beninese-style technology superhero. The adventure begins with the famous As Watch, this smart watch that protects your phone like a lion protects its cubs. The people of Cotonou, intrigued, approach and discover: glasses that do more than protect from the sun, computers and phones that could make even science fiction fans dream, and a place where "accessory" no longer rhymes with "gadget," but with future. Here, they don't just manufacture objects - they manufacture a Beninese legend, carried by the Asuka Spirit brand, which aims to shine from the African continent to the ends of the planet. One day in September 2023, in the grand hall of the Azalaï hotel, the startup created a buzz by announcing "Bénin connecté." More than 120,000 students, 300,000 artisans, and a million public and private workers suddenly had the chance to buy a computer or HiTech accessories on credit, to dive into the future without breaking the bank. The promise: to make technology as common as a hot plate of rice at noon in Cotonou. As World Tech never works alone. Ministers, impressed like children in front of a dancing robot, support the initiative. Imagine them, in pressed suits, Asuka glasses on their noses, applauding local successes and innovations. And to top it all off, the company shines even brighter at the DSI Awards, where its name resonates as a promise of the future for all of digital Africa. So, in front of this storefront where every object tells a story, remember: As World Tech, it's a dream stolen in a nightclub that decided to never be taken again. And if you leave without wanting to try one of these anti-theft watches, it means you're already a superhero… or that you never dance!

To spot the CHU de la Mère et de l'Enfant Lagune, simply look up at the large white sign dominating the entrance, framed by two light-colored buildings and an alley bustling with motorcycles, cars, and families from all over Cotonou. Imagine: you are here, right in front of a place where every day begins with the hope that a new life will come into being, where baby cries often resonate louder than the honking of zems outside! This hospital, formerly known as HOMEL, saw its history radically change in 2014, thanks to a presidential decree. As if by magic, it transformed from a hospital into a university hospital center, the famous CHU-mel you see there, in front of you. Here, maternity is not just a specialty; it's almost an adventure. Imagine doctors running through the corridors, midwives with eyes shining like fireflies, and in the air, the smell of medicines mixed with the sweet scent of anxiety and relief. But beware, here they don't just treat minor ailments and round bellies: every mother, every child becomes the story of a rediscovered smile or a small daily miracle. A secret: at CHU-mel, it seems babies don't wait for visiting hours to be born. Who knows, perhaps at the very moment I'm speaking to you, a new little citizen of Cotonou is uttering their first cry, right here, behind these modest white walls? So, ready to continue the visit, or do you feel like a midwife?

Look straight ahead: the Ancien pont de Cotonou reveals itself as a long, low metal walkway, placed very close to the water, with its golden reflections dancing on the lagoon. Imagine yourself in 1928, the sound of hammered metal echoing in the air, workers sweating under the sun, the Kouta canal still separating them… and suddenly, the Ancien pont appears and connects the two banks of Cotonou for the very first time! This bridge, the very first in the city, is a bit like the grumpy but sturdy grandfather of Cotonou's bridges… It's also called “the old one.” It's very close to the ocean, where the city opened onto the port and factories. At the time, the Akpakpa neighborhood resembled an isolated village, stuck behind the water; without this bridge, no bread, no chili! Trucks, bicycles, pedestrians, everyone crowded onto it, sometimes so much that the bridge seemed to groan with effort. In 1970, imagine over 2,000 cars and hundreds of cyclists, like rush hour today, but without modern honking. And motorcycles? In 1995, they reigned: 67% of passing vehicles were two-wheelers! But this old bridge has had some scares… In 2018, all of Cotonou worried because of its old bones damaged by salt and sea. Fortunately, the government promised to take care of it, so that it continues to be the guardian of the lagoon. So, ready to say hello to it? But be careful, no jumping on the spot, it needs to be handled gently!

In front of you, it's impossible to miss this long wall covered in vibrant, colorful graffiti, where bright drawings and letters catch the eye right at the edge of the sidewalk and stretch as far as the eye can see. Ah, the Heritage Wall! A true local star, you could almost ask it for an autograph... But beware, this wall is not just a giant canvas: it's the entire history, memory, and soul of Benin spread out before your eyes. Imagine walking on the hot asphalt of the Dota neighborhood in Zongo, and suddenly, the gray of the city gives way to a visual fireworks display: over 940 meters of frescoes, an African record, the third longest wall in the world behind those in Dubai and Brazil! I told you Cotonou hid surprises... It all started in 2013, when Laurenson Djihouessi, a talented artist, tagged the first works, supported by the ASSART association. But this wall, a remnant of an era when trains of the former Organisation Commune Bénin Niger passed nearby - now Bénin Rail - was a bit forgotten, like an old story stored in the attic. Fortunately, the Effet Graff festival revived everything in 2021! Imagine the scene: 24 artists from Benin and elsewhere, armed with spray cans, in full effervescence, gathered from February 12 to 21, ready to pay tribute to those who left their mark on the country. Before your eyes, it's not just street art: here, you can meet the gaze of King Béhanzin, feel the strength of the Amazones, thrill before powerful symbols like the Récade or the Gèlèdé masks, and even spot Angélique Kidjo or Sagbohan Danialou. Each portrait is an open door to the history and emotions of a people. It's said that some evenings, the wall comes alive in the light of headlights, and that each character will whisper their secret to those who dare to listen... Well, it's probably a legend, but admit it, you want to believe it! Take the time to observe; let yourself be carried away by the colors, the faces, this giant fresco that unites past, present, and future. And if anyone ever asks you where the beating heart of Cotonou is, show them the Heritage Wall… But be careful not to leave your heart there, it would have trouble leaving!

Imagine, it's 2018, a November evening. Hackers are lurking, the Internet is becoming a huge playground, but Benin hasn't said its last word. With a stroke of a decree - the famous N° 2018-529 - a team of superheroes suddenly emerges… without capes, but in jackets, and armed with keyboards. You could almost hear the clicking of keys on their computers in the night. Their mission? To protect the entire country from digital dangers. Nothing less! Under the leadership of their chief, Ouanilo Medegan Fagla, these specialists monitor and defend everything related to IT security. Here, we talk about cryptology - no, it's not the science of mummies, but the art of protecting secret messages. Imagine an invisible safe around every piece of information that transits, whether for the State or private companies. Even the cathedral doesn't perform as many miracles in terms of protection! Their work isn't limited to updating antivirus software. Every incident, every anomaly, every suspicion of hacking triggers their alarms. And boom, they rush in, centralize calls for help, analyze, close vulnerabilities, and disappear back into the shadows. You might think they spend their day repeating “password1234, that's not secure!”. Even better, they inform, train, and educate the entire Republic on pitfalls to avoid. A real national cybersecurity after-sales service, with a hotline and everything! ANSSI never works alone. It collaborates closely with the Office central de répression de la cybercriminalité, but also with many other actors to organize digital resistance. Its mission extends to ensuring the proper drafting of international laws and conventions on cybersecurity. They are even in charge of the famous national “public key.” If you imagine a giant keyring to lock the Internet in Benin, you're not wrong! And between us, every time a cybercriminal tries to act, they must feel a little cold sweat. Because ANSSI is watching and doesn't hesitate to charge with a simple click… You hear that “beep”? Perhaps the network has just been saved - and you won't even know it! So, the next time someone talks to you about cybersecurity, spare a thought for these experts who work day and night in this building… And don't forget: if your password is “azerty,” it's never too late to change!